Oil Change intervals (part 2)

[Riversider]

I'm picking this up from a thread last year. (See also under recent threads, but thought I should start a new one.) It's an oil change question for John Zibell among others. What is the argument for an annual change? My bike is a 1200 Sport 4V (not rollerised) low mileage in great condition. I ask the question because I changed my oil (slightly before the recommended interval) in June last year. I only managed a couple of thousand miles after that, before laying the bike up for winter —in a heated garage. I only do long rides (no short commutes etc) so the bike is always fully hot on the road. I have at least another 3,000 miles to go before the next service is due, but the "annual" change will come long before that. Do I do my next change according to the calendar or the distance?
And if we're talking regular annual oil changes, do you recommend new oil before laying up, or new oil on starting up in the Spring?

 

[Chet Van Aken]

I suppose the argument for the annual oil change is that the oil will become degraded with additional contaminants over time, such as moisture from the atmosphere. If you accept this logic then the second question is answered in that changing oil in the spring will leave oil in the engine from the running contaminants and the storage contaminants, changing in the fall will only expose the engine to storage contaminants. Possibly just draining the oil in the fall would be better as long as you remember to add it in the spring.

Oil changes are relatively inexpensive in time and materials so I always change on the recomended mileage. However, I have not always done so annually, but I've never gone over two years.

The only way to really tell is to compare identical machines subjected to various practices. I don't think you would notice a difference over the average life of street machines under normal riding conditions as long as the mileage changes are done and we are only talking about two years or so.

Best answer is: change by mileage or annually whichever comes first. You get to work on your bike more and you will probably feel better about it. Also, oil change to me means oil and filter. Leaving the filter on just leaves contaminated oil in the bike, you can't get it all out anyway especially with the oil coolers not draining well so don't make it worse by leaving a old filter on.

 

[Riversider]

Thanks for the input. If we're doing annual oil changes as matter of course (regardless of mileage) then I'd favour a change just before the winter lay-up —leaving clean oil in the engine. (And yes, of course, a new filter.) This is why I'm asking about how important the calendar change is as a matter of technical necessity and principle in these 4 valve (8 valve!) engines.

Otherwise one might wonder about the efficacy (and the economics) of changing the very best fully synthetic 10-60 oil at no more than two thirds of its recommended mileage every year. My own practice is always to change oil early — before the recommended period is up. But maybe not 3,000 miles early in this particular case! Interesting question.

 

[john zibell]

My take on annual changes is that it is baloney. Running the engine and getting the oil good and hot will vapor off any contaminants, both moisture and possibly fuel. I'd run it until you get the service light. That said, I do recommend doing the roller conversion sooner rather than later. I've seen pretty worn followers on low mileage bikes.

 

[Riversider]

That's my own feeling on the issue John: good long hot runs, and stored well in a garage should keep the oil OK. But you have identified a little anxiety on my part about the 8 valve engine —which so far is doing fine. So far . . .
I'm hoping to manage more miles this year, so the calendar / mileage difference will be much less in future.

 

[nel]

I bought a 473ml bottle of Red line breakin engine oil additive. It has then ZZDP hardening stuff in it that is lacking in modern oils. Speculation was it helps flat tappet bikes.