I have been replacing the original with a 1st generation that has a post on it. They seem to last longer. I make a wiring pigtail to plug in small pin to a small bullet connector.
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The pressure sensor is a normally closed switch that provides a ground path for the oil pressure light. It opens with oil pressure. A poor connection would act as an open indicating pressure when you don't have any which will trip a fault code.Well that’s concerning.
So if the bike is key on, kill switch on, not running I’d assume the circuit would be active and also have continuity from a “working” switch causing the triangle/can (can I say trican?) to illuminate.
I’m theorizing that if the wire has a bad connection then it’ll act as though it has pressure but once grounding out (possible leaking switch?) it’ll act as low pressure.
Jury is still out, I’ll repost Sunday eveningDid the new sensor correct the issue?
Have you ever seen a bike with an oil pressure gauge?If it’s just the sensor no damage should have occurred. I wish these bikes had a meter instead of an idiot light.
Have you ever seen a bike with an oil pressure gauge?
...insert Harley joke here...Sure. My Harley Davidson Street Glide.
Rode around an hour tonight. Oil light is gone.
Now where is the folder for leaking front/rear main seals……
Post in thread 'Is this a main oil seal leak?Don’t say that…
Rear main seal replacement is serious major surgery.
My oil lamp issue finally solved with the M12 sensor replacing. Bought an Hella 0.2-0.5bar on Amazon with 10€.Even an analog sensor fo the oil pressure gauge can fail and give wrong information. Anyway this my sensor. Forcing an air pressure inside, it shows 100ohm, not 0.
Now I ordered an equivalent from Hella, and I'll update you.
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I’ve grown to really enjoy this bike. It’s an expensive thing to learn on mechanically but worth it. Paid $3k for it. I own a Land Rover Discovery so leaks are customary. My rear main was actually my transmission front seal as I had stuck the breather hose on a plastic knob on the Airbox that had no hole in it. Pressurizing the gearbox when hot. Undid that and problem went away. Checked fluid levels afterwards and they were acceptable.As usual, late to this party.
Also no longer have a Norge; Lordy, I miss that beast.
An early adopter -- a disease I've since (pretty much ) cured, thanks to the Norge -- I had your oil-pressure madness and rear-main-seal issues, plus engine seizure from faulty oil pump, CARC self-destruct, and many more. Guzzi fixed the engine and CARC under warranty.
On my own, I finally fixed the OP issue as did you and countless others by replacing the connection ... and several new OP switches before I realized that the switches worked just fine, but the contact didn't. That led to all sorts of angst on the road. When I finally sold it last year for age issues -- mine, not the Norge's! -- I had sorted out all of the maddening issues ... except that main seal leak.
I decided that it really didn't matter. Heck, I was more incontinent than it was.
Seriously, and this may make the real wrenches and neatness nerds here groan, but on any sort of X/Y "value" assessment, the time and cost of such a fix seems, IMO, at least, to outweigh the benefits. So, unless it just drives you nuts, I'd view it as yet another endearing "feature." Besides, for former Volvo owners, it just seems natural.
OK, I've thrown that cherry bomb into the pond; let's see what bobs to the top.
Bill
P.S. @Captincvmn, you are just up the road; come visit the Moto Grappa at the top of Virginia sometime.