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Question: 8v main seal replacement

johnd

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Messages
9
Location
Montross, VA
I made the mistake of taking a short vacation over the holidays. When I returned, I found a puddle of oil under the clutch housing of my 2009 8v Griso. Problem is, the warranty ran out while I was gone and Guzzi declined to honor it.

So now my Griso looks like the victim of a serial killer, with the frame hanging from the ceiling and various appendages strewn out all over the garage. At this point, I've removed the clutch. There's an obvious stream of oil coming from the main seal and everything else is fairly dry. So my next step is to remove the flange.

I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on supporting the crankshaft during flange removal. Am I going to have to pull the oil pan off or is there some trick to make sure the whole thing doesn't come crashing down?
 
Do nothing other then remove the rear flange. Most of the flanges pull easily off, but you might need a puller. Be sure to re-assemble with a good assembly lube, and you'll need a gasket. I keep one in stock if you need one.
 
John
Before you get this reassembled check out this link https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/leak-oil-joint-carter.7887/
Get past the first half of page1 and he found it was the gasket behind the bearing housing leaking due to a bolt clearance issue.
I suffered the same and bottom tapped the bolt holes for my solution but others used shorter bolts or ....

To support the crank I just tipped the engine on its nose as the engine was completely out of the frame, easier to work on too.
IF IT IS JUST THE SEAL THE FLANGE CAN STAY IN
 
John
Before you get this reassembled check out this link https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/leak-oil-joint-carter.7887/
Get past the first half of page1 and he found it was the gasket behind the bearing housing leaking due to a bolt clearance issue.
I suffered the same and bottom tapped the bolt holes for my solution but others used shorter bolts or ....

To support the crank I just tipped the engine on its nose as the engine was completely out of the frame, easier to work on too.
IF IT IS JUST THE SEAL THE FLANGE CAN STAY IN

Thanks for the info. I was aware of the bolt and o-ring issues. That's why I decided to take the flange off.

Tilting the engine is just the idea I was looking for.
 
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