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Reassembling the Eldorado

I’m the rebuilt starter away from firing it up for the first time in 20 years. While I impatiently wait for it, I decided to go with the original type airbox instead of the K&N filters that came in the boxes of parts.

However, it seems I’m missing the air intake tubes that thread into the Dellortos and bridge the gap to the rubber boot. Do those “velocity stacks” I see for sale at MG and Crusty work as a substitute because they don’t really look like the pic in the parts catalog?
 
Couple suggestions, Use the contact tab at the store to see it Todd has any. If not, try contacting Harper's Moto Guzzi. They have an inventory of old parts, some used.
 
Freebirdbeachbum said:
I’m the rebuilt starter away from firing it up for the first time in 20 years. While I impatiently wait for it, I decided to go with the original type airbox instead of the K&N filters that came in the boxes of parts.

However, it seems I’m missing the air intake tubes that thread into the Dellortos and bridge the gap to the rubber boot. Do those “velocity stacks” I see for sale at MG and Crusty work as a substitute because they don’t really look like the pic in the parts catalog?
Click to expand...
No, those "velocity stacks" are for early Tontis and will not work. I have a bunch of good, used, original Loopframe 'stacks.
 
It took me much longer to figure out than I care to admit, but my right side is not firing.
I verified spark, fuel and compression. Thought I had it worried a couple of times but no go. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.
 
Freebirdbeachbum said:
It took me much longer to figure out than I care to admit, but my right side is not firing.
I verified spark, fuel and compression. Thought I had it worried a couple of times but no go. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
With spark, fuel, and ignition it should fire. May I suggest you double check valve clearances and carb settings to include float level..
 
I assume you've rebuilt the carbs? Did you replace the floats with the new white ones? Did you replace the choke valve springs with new? The reason I ask both of those question because both have been issues on customer bikes in the past. The white floats are rubbish - you really can't set the float level correctly and they fill up with gas and sink. The choke valve springs being sold now are too short, so the rubber tip of the valve doesn't seat tightly.

Then there are the sparkplugs - my V50 III wouldn't run on both cylinders with new (genuine) NGK plugs, but as soon as I installed a pair of Denso plugs it fired right up and ran great.

New distributor caps are okay at best, the rotors are pretty bad. New condensers are commonly defective right out of the box.
 
Thanks Guys.

The carb has been the primary suspect. It seems like it's flooding the cylinder. I've been running thru gas like crazy. Thought I had it nailed down when I removed it and noticed I put the pump piston in upside down when I rebuilt it but correcting that didnt do it.

I also looked at the timing and noted that the timing marks on the pully arent lining up as they should by a long shot which has me wondering. At TDC on #2 compression stroke, the valves are both closed as they should be and the points are open but the timing marks are way off. I checked #1 initially and it seemed fine too. What does this mean?
 
Freebirdbeachbum said:
Thanks Guys.

The carb has been the primary suspect. It seems like it's flooding the cylinder. I've been running thru gas like crazy. Thought I had it nailed down when I removed it and noticed I put the pump piston in upside down when I rebuilt it but correcting that didnt do it.

I also looked at the timing and noted that the timing marks on the pully arent lining up as they should by a long shot which has me wondering. At TDC on #2 compression stroke, the valves are both closed as they should be and the points are open but the timing marks are way off. I checked #1 initially and it seemed fine too. What does this mean?
Click to expand...
The timing marks on pulley can be off since it is mounted with the bolts to put the pulley together to drive the generator. Set the timing marks with the left cylinder as sitting on the bike at TDC on compression stroke. Set the timing based on the left cylinder, not the right. Once set the timing will be correct for both cylinders as it has a two lead distributor.

1710786787034
 
Freebirdbeachbum said:
I get that. It's the timing marks not lining up that i was curious about. I assume that when the motor was rebuilt and pully attached, the builder didnt pay attention to the orientation of the pulley.
Click to expand...
The pulley can be installed 120 degrees and 240 degrees out. Set the left cylinder to TDC and then install the pulley so that the "B" mark is aligned with the arrow.

A long bolt with the head cut off is a good alignment stud to make installing the pulley and shims easier.

Don't use bolts any longer than 16 mm to secure the pulley to the hub or they'll dig into the timing cover.
 
I’ve gone thru the carb, disassembling and reassembling it, including checking the float level, and it seems all good. The carbs are synched. The valves and timing are good. I’ve swapped plugs, wires, distributor cap and even the carb float needle.

I pulled the slide and it’s soaked in fuel so I’m still thinking it’s a flooding problem. What am I missing? I'm going to grind the needle seat with compound.
 
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Freebirdbeachbum said:
I’ve gone thru the carb, disassembling and reassembling it, including checking the float level, and it seems all good. The carbs are synched. The valves and timing are good. I’ve swapped plugs, wires, distributor cap and even the carb float needle.

I pulled the slide and it’s soaked in fuel so I’m still thinking it’s a flooding problem. What am I missing? I'm going to grind the needle seat with compound.
Click to expand...
I use a Q-Tip chucked in a drill and fine valve lapping compound to polish the float needle seats. New float needles with pink/orange tip? Did you check to make sure the float wasn't filling with gas? New choke valve? Spring long enough to seat it well? Enough slack in the choke cables?

I'd still swap on a good used condenser just to rule that out.
 
The float needles are new pink/orange. I swapped them with each other and no change. Float is not filling with gas. Choke valve checks out. I put on the old condenser and no change although I don’t know if it was even good 20 years ago when it last ran.

I lapped the valve and it may have improved it marginally but hard to tell. It will still only occasionally snap, crackle or pop. I snapped pics of the left and right carbs after I finished running it. You can see the right one (at the bottom) full of gas compared to the right.


IMG 9359 IMG 9358
 
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Freebirdbeachbum said:
I’ve gone thru the carb, disassembling and reassembling it, including checking the float level, and it seems all good. The carbs are synched. The valves and timing are good. I’ve swapped plugs, wires, distributor cap and even the carb float needle.

I pulled the slide and it’s soaked in fuel so I’m still thinking it’s a flooding problem. What am I missing? I'm going to grind the needle seat with compound.
Click to expand...
How can the carbs be in sync if the engine isn't running on both cylinders? I see much more fuel coming into one, but the internal pumps will squirt fuel up when you remove the slides. Viewed from the riders position, which exhaust pipe gets hot, the left or right? From your photos it is difficult to determine the actual left and right.
 
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