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V7 Classic Valve Adjustment Help

sarkkus

sarkkus

Just got it firing!
Joined
Aug 29, 2017
Messages
5
Location
Medford, Oregon
Well shoot. Call me what you like, but I broke a valve adjustment screw. Over-torqued when I was tightening down the locking nut and I get the bolt itself was weak enough that it snapped right off. The replacement screw is easy enough to get, but is replacing it even possible without taking apart the cylinder head? And also, there doesn't seem to be a clear answer. Is it 15mm intake and 20mm exhaust, or 10mm and 15mm?? My owner's manual is saying the 10 and 15 but I'm seeing some people say to go ahead and do 15 and 20. Please help!
 
I'm not as familiar with the Heron head models as the big block hemi heads, but from the parts listing it looks like all you have to do is set the cylinder to TDC Compression, unbolt the rocker shaft assembly and lift it out, then unscrew the broken adjustment screw and replace it with a new one. Assembly is the reverse.

For valve clearances, the Heron head motors are supposed to be set to 0.15mm (.006") intake and 0.20mm (.008") exhaust from all I've read about them. The new V7III and V9 motors, with the hemi heads, take 0.10mm (.004") intake and 0.15mm (.006") exhaust settings. I verified this latter clearance spec through a friend who works in the Moto Guzzi engine development group because the conflicting documentation from Piaggio/Moto Guzzi wasn't very helpful, nor was my request for clarification to the technical support email contact at Piaggio/Guzzi North America.
 
BTW: It's unclear from the parts book listing, but if unbolting the rocker shaft assembly means removing two of the head securing nuts, be sure to loosen all four gradually in the appropriate pattern, leaving the two that don't need to come off just snug so as not to disturb the head gasket. Again, re-assembly means the reverse: tightening the cylinder head retaining nuts in the appropriate pattern until all are torqued properly.

:)
 
All done! I ordered the screw and new nut from AF1 and the change took me less than 10 minutes! With the valves set to .15mm and .20mm, the bike is much happier. I am having issues with the ECU misbehaving but based on what I've read if I buy a ECU flash tool it should correct the problem and my bike will officially be up to snuff (in my book). Hopefully an exhaust down the road, but at least my 15k service is complete! Thanks for your help.
 
Godfrey said:
BTW: It's unclear from the parts book listing, but if unbolting the rocker shaft assembly means removing two of the head securing nuts, be sure to loosen all four gradually in the appropriate pattern, leaving the two that don't need to come off just snug so as not to disturb the head gasket. Again, re-assembly means the reverse: tightening the cylinder head retaining nuts in the appropriate pattern until all are torqued properly.

:)
Click to expand...

I too had the adjustment screws break and now have replacement items. I have been attempting to find the "appropriate pattern" regarding loosening and torquing these head securing nuts and have not found that answer yet anywhere. Can you, anyone, provide more details of that pattern please? Much appreciated.

I started the process then discovered I could not find all the answers I hoped for in Guzziology and/or manuals I have.

Dang frustrating finding some data or procedures for repair and mtce of these bikes. Love our Guzzis, but of course like everyone finding a shop you can depend upon requires many hours of travel. Good thing our bikes are worth it... ;^)
 
The Moto Guzzi V750IE Engine Service Manual (or V7II Engine Service Manual) describes the procedure for removing and installing cylinder heads. It's in the GuzziTech.com downloads area.

Basically, you should always loosen or tighten the main four head securing nuts/bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Auxiliary securing nuts or bolts (like the fifth one up at the top of the cylinder head) are loosened first when removing the head and secured last when installing the head.
 
Godfrey said:
The Moto Guzzi V750IE Engine Service Manual (or V7II Engine Service Manual) describes the procedure for removing and installing cylinder heads. It's in the GuzziTech.com downloads area.

Basically, you should always loosen or tighten the main four head securing nuts/bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Auxiliary securing nuts or bolts (like the fifth one up at the top of the cylinder head) are loosened first when removing the head and secured last when installing the head.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the speedy feedback. I kept digging and found other references as well. "Common sense" somewhat, but your point regarding the fifth 8mm item is a new comment.

I work on the bikes only infrequently, and have learned things with little help than what I can source on the forums, so I am always a tad "paranoid" about proceeding without advice. I have learned to keep detailed notes of my steps and even record the size of this or that nut etc for reference "next year". Fun, satisfying and financially rewarding, but nerve wracking sometimes.

Thank you again and all the "contributors" on these forums.
 
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