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V7 Racer - bar end weights

Pie-Man

Pie-Man

Just got it firing!
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Hi all!

Want to fit some Rizoma Spy-R bar end mirrors and need to remove the bar end weights. They are held on by 6mm allen head bolts into a what looks like a plastic slug? Any tips on how to remove this plastic section ... brute force and ignorance?! :lol:
 
On my V7 Classic, after you take off the hex bolt holding on the weight, there is a metal plug that the hex screws into.
Sound different than yours, can you post a picture of how yours is set up?

I haven't needed to take off more, because all I wanted to do was add more weight. I was hoping to add some lead washers between the weight and the bar, for more mass, but am having trouble sourcing lead washers.

Joe
 
sign216 said:
On my V7 Classic, after you take off the hex bolt holding on the weight, there is a metal plug that the hex screws into.
Sound different than yours, can you post a picture of how yours is set up?

I haven't needed to take off more, because all I wanted to do was add more weight. I was hoping to add some lead washers between the weight and the bar, for more mass, but am having trouble sourcing lead washers.

Joe
Click to expand...


The cureknown since grandad was young, was filling the bar pipe with buckshots.
 
No, no, no. I want heavier bar ends, like lead. Not billet aluminum, which is lighter than the stock iron ones.

Holt, filling the bar with shot isn't an option, because the bar ends are sealed. I am hoping to use lead washers to add weight to the stock weights, but am having trouble sourcing correctly sized ones.
 
guzzipete said:
These Rizoma bar end weights should work with no modification to your bike.

http://www.pjsparts.com/catalog/product ... cts_id=178

Contact PJ's Parts to make sure they will fit.

I installed Rizoma Retro Classics on my V7C and had a pair of aluminum bar ends made. They work great.
Click to expand...

Hey Guzzipete, I got the same set up as yours, reverse retro with rizoma bar ends, do you us any of the black inner ring that comes with the mirror? even the thinnest ring wont fit and I install mine with out it but not feeling too secure (you can see how much the clamp was bent from the pic)
 

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WHY, I took my OEM bar ends and a Rizoma mirror to a machine shop with the idea of having them turn down the OEM units so the mirrors would fit. They said that it could be done, but it would be much cheaper to have new bar ends made from aluminum. The aluminum units are an exact copy of the OEMs with the ends turned down to match the diameter of the mirror stalk. It only takes a couple of turns to clamp the mirror to the new bar ends.

Sign216, why do you want to add weight to the bars? Do you have an issue with vibration? I thought that changing the OEM bar ends to aluminum might increase the vibration in the bars, but I can detect no difference. Also, I have so little vibration coming through the bars, that at times I think I am back riding the CB500 or CB750 I once owned. Image in the mirrors is crystal clear and nothing attached to the bars has vibrated loose.
 
sign216 said:
Pete, yes, I want to decrease the vibrations, which can be annoying on a long tour.
Click to expand...
A throttle body sync process will go a long way to reducing vibration. Have you tried that?

There are two strategies for reducing vibration through the bars -- increasing the bar's resonant frequency by adding mass to the bars or decoupling the bars from the source of vibration. You are attempting the former by adding bar end weights. For the latter, modifying the handle bar mounts might help. I'm not sure what could be done except using a rubber isolator between the bar clamps and top of the triple clamp.
 
Yep, I've done a careful TB synch.

If no one here can provide a source of lead washers, then I'll get some steel ones.

Although the extra density and corrosion resistance of lead are better.
 
sign216 said:
Pete, yes, I want to decrease the vibrations, which can be annoying on a long tour.
Click to expand...

I did several 200 to 400 mile days last year and vibration was never an issue.

You might want to try a pair of Grap On grip covers. They are cheap and easy to install. They just slide over the stock grips. The foam might absorb enough of the vibration so that it would no longer be a problem.

http://www.bikebandit.com/grab-on-motor ... hwod3n10xg

If you have not removed the evap system, it is another thing you might want to consider. My engine, that was already running really, really well, runs even better now that the evap system is gone.
 
sign216 said:
Yep, I've done a careful TB synch.

If no one here can provide a source of lead washers, then I'll get some steel ones.

Although the extra density and corrosion resistance of lead are better.
Click to expand...

Hey Joe, lead is pretty easy to work with. Can you just make some lead washers?
I used to melt down old wheel weights on my stove to make bullets.
Just an idea.
 
Mwrenn, I never thought of that. I used to reload too, but never cast my own bullets. (Days gone by I could buy a can of black powder at a local store, with no problem. Now it's licenses, and special order, and "no stores stock black powder....").

Since you've got the experience with molten lead, how could I make a mold?

It might be easier to cut and size lead flashing. 25 years ago for a roofing project I bought heavy lead sheets. I don't know if they even sell it anymore, but that would be a snap if it's still around.
 
For a mold I was thinking you could use something like a muffin tin. You could pour in the lead, then cut out your washers with an appropriate sized hole saw. Might be an interesting project. :D
 
I think the easiest is to stack several layers of lead flashing (if it's still sold) and use a hole drill to get the cylinder I need. No casting and all.

But we'll need your bullet making skills when the revolution comes!
 
rbm said:
There are two strategies for reducing vibration through the bars -- increasing the bar's resonant frequency by adding mass to the bars or decoupling the bars from the source of vibration.
Click to expand...

I'm no mechanical engineer, but I would have thought that adding mass would decrease the resonant frequency.
 
Hello everyone, just buy a set of rizoma reverse retro mirrors for my V7 Classic. Any help for the installation? :(
 
Why not enriched uranium?

But seriously, those tungsten washers aren't sized right, are they? They are sized for another purpose.

I'm about 1/2 way through the "lead washer project." Cutting the lead proved to be a pain in the butt, so it's on a back burner, but still on the list for things to do before spring. It appears I can double the weight of the OEM steel washers with a fine appearance, it's just that the punch I'm using for cutting isn't very effective.
 
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