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Valve adjustment questions

jturquette

jturquette

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 28, 2014
Messages
37
Location
Houston, TX
Hello there community!

I am going to adjust the valves on my 2007 Breva 1100 (2Valve version). I have seen some good instruction videos on line but still have two questions.

1. What is the gap measurement for the valves or where can I find the information?

2. Do I need to rotate the engine after the first cylinder head valves are checked/adjusted but before starting the check and adjustment of the second cylinder?

It seems to me that would be the case, but I don't see that little nugget of information.

So, I am asking of the procedure would be as follows:
1. rotate engine to get left cylinder to its top most position between the exhaust valve closing and the intake valve opening
2. check and adjust cylinders as needed
3. close up left cylinder
4. rotate engine to get right cylinder to its top most position between the exhaust valve closing and the intake valve opening
5. check and adjust cylinders as needed
6. close up right cylinder​

Thanks in advance!
 
Find new videos. What you have written is not correct.

With valve cover removed, rotate engine clockwise until intake valve starts to open. Continue rotation until the piston returns to TDC. Helpful to use a plastic straw to determine TDC. Both push rods should rotate freely which indicates both valves are closed at TDC of the compression stroke. Adjust valves, intake 0.004 inch, exhaust 0.006 inch. This procedure works for both sides. Doesn't matter which cylinder you start with.
 
Thanks for the quick reply John.

My plan was to use the rear wheel with the transmission engaged to facilitate the engine rotation. If I rotate the wheel forwards (like the bike is rolling forward), which direction does the engine spin? And for that matter, clockwise while I am looking at the bike from the front?

Thanks for any follow up.
 
Pull the front rubber cap from the timing chest. Inside you will find a 24mm nut on the end of the crankshaft. Use this to rotate your engine (using a 24mm socket), and not the rear wheel/gearbox. Pretend you are tightening a bolt for rotation (assuming a R/H - normal - thread)
 
Pull the front rubber cap from the timing chest. Inside you will find a 24mm nut on the end of the crankshaft. Use this to rotate your engine (using a 24mm socket), and not the rear wheel/gearbox. Pretend you are tightening a bolt for rotation (assuming a R/H - normal - thread)-------
Oz1200Guzzi

All these years and I've been doing it the hard way??? yeah I've been doing the 3rd gear wheel rotation.

For piston position indicator I use a bamboo chopstick because they don't shear easily and even if shredded a little will come out whole.

As to making sure the rockers are free I usually grab them and see if they rattle up & down.

Also I bias my "measurement" toward looser and not tighter because I'm more afraid of burning a valve than loosing a few horses because the valves are a little loose.
 
If you pull the rubber bung from the RHS of the engine there are valve timing marks on the ring gear, "S" for LHS and "D" for RHS. Of course make sure you're on the compression stroke and the engine is cold.
Kev
 
Kevin.NZ said:
If you pull the rubber bung from the RHS of the engine there are valve timing marks on the ring gear, "S" for LHS and "D" for RHS. Of course make sure you're on the compression stroke and the engine is cold.
Kev
Click to expand...


Some Brevas left the factory with the single clutch plate system. I've run across one. If so, those marks will not be there.
 
Thanks to all who contributed and commented. I can always count this community for sage advice.

Cheers!
 
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