Vagrant
GT Reference
My bad, I forgot you had a Roamer. The V7 is the one where there is a dramatic handling increase with dropping the tubes. That said I suspect yours would too.
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Reminds me of many other modern contraptions we have to deal with. Scientific engineering has often made the simple quite difficult.
I don’t remmember what car it was, but you had to remove the dash “Completely” to do some job, heater core or something. Turning a might have been a 300$ job into a 2000$ job ( guessing)
I don’t remmember what car it was, but you had to remove the dash “Completely” to do some job, heater core or something. Turning a might have been a 300$ job into a 2000$ job ( guessing)
Appreciate the wishes and advice. Pam, my wife, and I were both injured last Summer when the front brakes on my R Model Sportster decided to lock up. No stopee' for me as she leaned left. She ended up across the other lane on the shoulder and I was under the bike in the middle of the road.
Pam got lots of internal injuries. Mine was just a lot of blood. Both of us were "fully dressed" with helmets. Old and flopped on the ground do not go well together. I recently quit flat tracking because of that issue.
As for the V9, just might be the same fork. 150mm down at full compression is hard to do by yourself unless you have some kind of help. I just expect to pull the lowers off. Then probably find that a nasty compression while we were riding dislodged that seal from the seat. Only thing I can figure for such a fast and horrendous pouring of oil. After changing the seals, gonna do both sides, I am just going to hope and guess at the amount.
Appreciate the idea of 400mm, which was my original guess. Strange those "Goose" manuals do not have that information. They also do not have anything on valve adjustments either. I just did one on this bike using "common sense" setting them at .005" intake and .007" exhaust. Guessed at TDC with a stick in the plug hole. Been doing that for decades.
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41 years old and new meet. The V9 now sports a flatscreen, modified comfort seat, and "goose" bags.
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Last time I changed the oil in my V7 forks I made this. The tube is set at 150mm and I keep filling the fork tube until the brass tube is immersed. I then suck out what isn’t needed until no more appears in the syringe. Seems to work fine.
ThankslMotion Pro makes one for those here in the States for $16; amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0121-Fork-Level/dp/B000GZPCYI/
Motion Pro makes one for those here in the States for $16; amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0121-Fork-Level/dp/B000GZPCYI/
I use a steel metric ruler w/duct tape folded over at the right spot. Looks like a flag but works great AND doesn't cost a penny. My Hi-Tek tools. I'd just drain it, pump it, then pour in 400cc & cap it. I charge 1hr per leg to take them off & change fld.
Picked up a manual on Ebay. It states the air gap in a vertical, removed fork is 120 mm ( less than 5"). Going to do two things next week.
After looking at the "book" , it says I have to completely remove the fork tubes from the triple clamps. OUCH! Now it is near above my pay grade as I do not have a full lift rack to do this. Always just removed the lowers, changed the seals, slip them back on the forks and filled from the top caps.
The "book" wants all lower seal work done and filled vertically off the bike. Then you compress the spring, screw the cap on and insert the whole mess back into the triple tree.
The second thing is I am not longer gonna do it myself. Called my friend at a local independent Harley shop. They don't like to work on any "spaghetti bender" but I am such a good customer they will do this for me. They have helped on some of my old BMW's in the past so American Cycle in Tampa will change their name for a day.
I'll let you know if I find and adjust the points and condenser.
Don’t forget to check the Coil !