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Cali' 3 brake woes

Eliminator

Eliminator

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
81
Location
Hampshire, UK
Thought I’d give the bike a treat and change the brake fluid.

Now the left hand linked disc won’t seal on the nipple.

Removed the caliper, now suspended on the handlebars.

Sealing face on nipple looks a bit rough. I work in QC, in a company that makes prosthetic legs. The sealing faces on some of our components mimics that of the caliper / nipple sealing surfaces, so I know what I’m looking for.

But, the sealing face in the caliper has a slight nick in it
:unamused:


The angles between the two , are I’m “fairly” sure are not the same angle.

I could take the caliper to work and “Plastiform” the thread and sealing face to make sure.
Plastiform is a twin pack fluid that flows easily and takes the form of the component that it is used on. Once it’s set, it is extracted. It’s flexible enough to remove without damaging the form which needs to be inspected. Then measure the angle on our Starret VMM. ( visual measuring machine)

Then attempt to recut the seat by hand, this has successfully been done at work.
I like a challenge

UPDATE Ebay lots of repair kits available, beats faffing about. £7.99
 

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Hi!

Where are you leaking from?

Out the top of the tube passageway in the bleed screw or past the threads?

The bleed screw seats down in the caliper port where the little holes are pressed up against the sidewalks of the sidewalks.

I’ve seen the bleed screws and even the caliper port itself, damaged from over-torquing the hell out of the bleed screw.

This unfortunately, is one of those items that people just love to try to set at 100 ft/lb when in reality is it just “Snug + 2-3mm additional rotation”.

If it is leaking out the threads, you can use a little plumbing Teflon tape wrapped on the drain plug threads only. Please do not cover those tiny bleed holes.

Either way, this will stop the leak until you can get new bleed screws which I’m pretty sure will totally fix your issue here.
 
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Leaking past the threads Scott. Looking at the sealing face inside the caliper, there is a score. Only nipped it up in the first instance, Honest Guv. :)
 
PTFE tape worked. Had problems this time getting the brake pedal to feel hard, despite using this. However the brake pedal does make the rear brake light work, so there is pressure.

If it ain't broke, don't "2 fix it" :think:
 

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As you removed the bleed screw, you will need to completely bleed the brake line again. You will have air right down at the caliper which will make it spongy feeling.

If you bleed out 1 full reservoir worth of fluid, your full functionality should return. Remember to loosen the bleed screw only enough to allow fluid to more through it under pressure from the pedal or lever, whichever is appropriate for this particular location.

Glad you are getting it resolved easily and timely.

Well done Sir!
 
Have to do the linked back brake next. Last time I did this, I was unaware that there was a bleed nipple under the tool tray. Is this the distribution valve? I didn't touch this last time....... 9 years ago!!!! I'm hoping that as this is only a fluid change, that I don't have to touch this and I can just bleed the back caliper?

Regardless of my problems, that old fluid.:swear:
 

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Eliminator said:
Leaking past the threads Scott. Looking at the sealing face inside the caliper, there is a score. Only nipped it up in the first instance, Honest Guv. :)
Click to expand...
If fluid is leaking past the bleeder and caliper tapered seal surfaces then it has two exit paths: the bore through the bleeder screw and the threads on the bleeder and caliper. Applying a sealant to the threads still leaves the bore as a leak path.

Jason
 
Bore didn't leak.

Back brake done, What a lovely place to have the bleed nipple.

Someone else suggested small ball bearing, hit with mallet, create new seat.
 
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