• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Best speed sensor sealant and technique?

John in PA

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
255
Location
Hollidaysburg, PA
It's taking Guzzi forever to send a replacement speed sensor (suspect for quality, of course..) for the Big S. I've already tried sealing the cable entrance into the sensor with silicone sealer--FAIL! It crapped out with the bike parked in a heavy rain overnight. Eventually dried out and started working again after a week in the garage. I wonder if the actual sensor magnet needs to be sealed as well where it meets the plastic housing? Is there a liquid that the whole item could be dipped in without screwing it up? I want to take care of this crap while I'm in downtime mode waiting for my ECU and goodies to come back from Todd.
 
John,

When mine crapped out I called my dealer and they sent me a new one. I took black RTV and filled the wire holes and spread a thin film over all the cracks in the housing. It hasn't failed yet and I have been in some real frog stranglers.
 
Mine failed. I dried it out and warmed it up thoroughly and sealed it with 'liquid tape' (black and flexible). That held for 6 months until two weeks ago. During the deluge we were getting it failed again. I called the dealer to get a new warranty one. It came in just a couple of days, but he put it on his other Stelvio (which failed the day after I told him his would fail too eventually :laugh: ). He has another on order for me. I'm not sure what to try on it to prevent it from happening again.

I have to believe the problem is were the wire exits the housing, but could be wrong.

BTW, search for my post on the dead battery. My battery appears to have died because the speed sensor got water in it. Be warned.
 
I thought about the liquid vinyl that's used to dip tool handles. But I settled on a product called Seal All. Supposed to be gas/oil resistant. I think I'll warm up the sensor and smear/work it into all visible crevices, and leave a big blob for strain relief where the cable enters the sensor. I'm not all that confident in the replacement from Guzzi unless it carries a different part/mfgr number. If/when I get one, I'll probably give it the treatment before installing.
How deep inside the bodywork is the connector for the sensor wire?
 
Another dead sensor here... died after getting caught in what seemed like a monsoon a couple days ago.
 
Just ending my second season with a refurbished sensor with NO FAILURE (I've no time to be a "fair weather rider") :)
The one on my bike has been resealed / potted with an epoxy sealant. Easy fix... drop dead reliable through the rain, standing water, melting snow...

Never had a problem with my failed sensors draining power Wayne. Could it be something else?
 
YBFAST said:
Just ending my second season with a refurbished sensor with NO FAILURE (I've no time to be a "fair weather rider") :)
The one on my bike has been resealed / potted with an epoxy sealant. Easy fix... drop dead reliable through the rain, standing water, melting snow...

Never had a problem with my failed sensors draining power Wayne. Could it be something else?

Do you recall the name of the sealant? Is it rigid or flexible?
Most epoxy is rigid, but that may be irrelevant.

The battery drain thing appeared to be directly related, but it sounds pretty odd. Just one of those 'be aware of this possibility' things.
 
Had the same problem on my griso more than 2 years ago.It failed on a road trip through France. Took it off, dried it out overnight on the household heating system, give it a squirt of ACF-50, let it soak up, sealed the cable entry and the back of the sensor with whatever I had at the time, which happened to be clear silicone windscreen sealant. Has`n`t let me down since. I think I caught it before corrosion took hold and screwed up the internal conections. Still, got a spare on warranty off the local dealer and it`s still in the packaging, just in case.
 
Last night I took mine off and worked the Seal All well into the cable entry, with an extra dollop for good measure. then coated the surface that mates with the rear drive and reattached it while still wet. I don't ride in the rain often, so I think I'll give mine the torture test with a garden hose and report back. that may be a while yet, as I'm waiting to reassemble the bike till my computer/PC-V stuff comes back from Todd.
 
Wayne,

The epoxy I used to seal the speedo sensors was most likely this stuff;

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0164321

I say most likely, as it's been quite a while since I did them, the grey cells aren't what they used to be. :lol:

The article I wrote seems to have gone off-line again, post migration. IIRC there was a fairly good pic of packet. But anyway the spec on the stuff above seems to be fine, so I wouldn't hesitate in using it.

Steve
 
You need to remove the rear wheel to get at the sensor well, especially to remove it, as the two allen screws that hold it face the rear rotor with very little clearance. (You could probably seal the cable entry without removing the wheel, assuming good light and patience, but wheel removal is easy, and may make it easier to do a good job with the sealing, also allows access to the inside face of the sensor) You DON'T have to remove the rear caliper. as there's enough room to slide the rear wheel forward for the rotor to clear the caliper for removal. I'd suggest rocking the top/bottom of the wheel in and out firmly before removing (after the bolts are out) to spread the brake pads to the max. this will make reinstalling the rotor between the pads easier when you get to that point.
The sensor is a sealed plastic unit except for the face that mates with the CARC drive, and the place where the cable enters. I tried to seal both areas as I didn't want to leave ANY possibility for water to enter. I don't know if sealing the face that mates with the CARC is necessary, but I didn't want to have to fiddle with it a third time.
I haven't tested the results with the SEAL ALL yet, but if I was going to use another product, I'd try GOOP brand adhesive, basically a sophisticated rubber cement, but VERY tenacious stuff, dries flexible, water and weatherproof, and fluid enough to work well into the cable entry with a pin or paper clip. (The Seal All is more fluid, but dries hard. It does have a fuel/oil resistant claim.)
 
I ended up putting some 'Loctite' clear silicone sealant about the speedo sensor wire, and having just spent four days touring northern Scotland (two days of heavy rain and very strong winds) the speedo is still working, fingers crossed this fix is permanent.
 
I was browsing the Leonelli site and found this. It has the word 'waterproof'. Must be some type of humour.
 

Attachments

  • sensor.jpg
    sensor.jpg
    24 KB · Views: 761
fatal said:
I ended up putting some 'Loctite' clear silicone sealant about the speedo sensor wire, and having just spent four days touring northern Scotland (two days of heavy rain and very strong winds) the speedo is still working, fingers crossed this fix is permanent.

Which number Loctite product did you use?
 
And the best possible sealant might not help when...

I took my bike to a local shop for a new rear tyre and asked them to change it as well. While I was waiting and partly windowshopping and partly checking from a distance how do they progress on the task, I noticed that in my horror at some time they had removed the rear brake caliber and it was hanging there and looking very heavy and supported only by rear brake tube tied to this thin speed sensor wire I had changed and sealed a few weeks before!!! :shock:

No wonder they break so often!!! :(

Next time you have your rear tyre changed, tell before the job that this speed sensor wire is a weak spot and the rear caliber has to be supported somehow. "Do Not let it just hang there!"

.
 
John in PA said:
fatal said:
I ended up putting some 'Loctite' clear silicone sealant about the speedo sensor wire, and having just spent four days touring northern Scotland (two days of heavy rain and very strong winds) the speedo is still working, fingers crossed this fix is permanent.

Which number Loctite product did you use?


It says on the tube.... 595 Loctite, Superflex Clear, silicone transparent.

Hope this helps. Fatal.
 
Back
Top