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clutch/brake lever adjust question

lti_57

lti_57

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 17, 2010
Messages
27
Location
Spokane, WA
Ok new to this site been at wildguzzi forum for a while
here is my question I like my clutch/brake levers angled down a bit seems to work better with the way my hands curl in and out
The levers right now on the 2008 Norge are damm near level short of new bars (Not even sure it will fix what i need )
has any body come up with a way to rotate the levers down
Does this make sense to y'all
Any way i dig the site lots of good info been reading it for days thought i should at least post something.
 
I have mines angled down to suit my position. If you have the controls attached to the bar via pins they will rotate with the levers. I have another bar, so I'm not using the pins on the right side, and on the left it's convenient because it brings turn signals lever up, closer to normal position.
 
On the Norge and Breva, all you need to do is slacken the bolt which holds the bar into the riser casting, on the inside end. You should then be able to rotate the bar itself, and end up with any setting you want for the levers.
 
I want to make the same adjustment. I found that the switch on one side is pinned and doesn't allow adjustment but this is not related to the lever angle. The obstruction not allowing the Master Cylinder to be rotated is the threaded part of the MC where the brake line banjo connects. One side has a little protective stem that the hits the handle bar stalk. I filed this stem a bit to gain an degree or two on the rotation. The only real solution that has occurred to me is to use a radial MC but the mirror thread would be lost, so bar end mirrors will have to be used. A bit of an expensive upgrade ($900+) just to be able to adjust the lever angles. Wasn't an issue on the tonti and loop frame bikes. The radial MCs won't allow the use of Stelvio hand guards which I've just installed... You may have to get taller (or shorter) ! ;) Just thought of another solution! switch to handle bars. I believe the Griso and 1200 Sport come with bars, just swap out the related parts. Cheaper than changing the MCs and you get to keep the mirrors where they are.
 
Rafael said:
I want to make the same adjustment. I found that the switch on one side is pinned and doesn't allow adjustment but this is not related to the lever angle. The obstruction not allowing the Master Cylinder to be rotated is the threaded part of the MC where the brake line banjo connects. One side has a little protective stem that the hits the handle bar stalk. I filed this stem a bit to gain an degree or two on the rotation. The only real solution that has occurred to me is to use a radial MC but the mirror thread would be lost, so bar end mirrors will have to be used. A bit of an expensive upgrade ($900+) just to be able to adjust the lever angles. Wasn't an issue on the tonti and loop frame bikes. The radial MCs won't allow the use of Stelvio hand guards which I've just installed... You may have to get taller! ;) Just thought of another solution! switch to handle bars. I believe the Griso and 1200 Sport come with bars, just swap out the related parts. Cheaper than changing the MCs and you get to keep the mirrors where they are.
Click to expand...

Rafael, The bolts they are talking about are 6mm socket heads (Allen) inboard of the handlebar. Loosen it and the whole assembly rotates, switch, and MC, clutch and/or brake.
 
john zibell said:
Rafael, The bolts they are talking about are 6mm socket heads (Allen) inboard of the handlebar. Loosen it and the whole assembly rotates, switch, and MC, clutch and/or brake.
Click to expand...

M8 actually. Even with this method there is a limit to lever adjustment. Move things too far and the master cylinder noses will contact the cast risers.
 
Another point. There is a "correct" position for the levers - with your fingers extended and resting on the lever tops there should be a straight line over your hands and extending up your forarms. That positioning gives best feel and maximum leverage.
 
GrahamNZ said:
john zibell said:
Rafael, The bolts they are talking about are 6mm socket heads (Allen) inboard of the handlebar. Loosen it and the whole assembly rotates, switch, and MC, clutch and/or brake.
Click to expand...

M8 actually. Even with this method there is a limit to lever adjustment. Move things too far and the master cylinder noses will contact the cast risers.
Click to expand...

Yes the bolts are M8, and you use a 6mm Allen on them.
 
Which ever bolts are used to make the adjustment the stock set up limits the rotation of the MC so that depending on your torso length its hard to get the lever angle to the correct position as described by Graham. Aftermarket cast risers that are set back a bit more and a reconfigured riser to bar connection to allow more downward rotation of the levers would be great. Anybody interested in making them? My beemer buddy told me about a new BMW with adjustable bar backs (the bars move forward and backwards) haven't seem them... I don't necessarily like adjustable stuff; just has to fit me! :laugh:

Rafael
 
Rafael said:
Aftermarket cast risers that are set back a bit more and a reconfigured riser to bar connection to allow more downward rotation of the levers would be great. Anybody interested in making them? Rafael
Click to expand...
Helibars already make them. Do a search here for helibars.
 
thanks Brian, the Helibars look great, too bad the hoses have to be modified. My experience with aftermarket products that claim "bolt on without modification" is that it's true about 50% of the time. But the GT team go it right with the Breva Y pipe; thanks Todd.

I'll probably wait till next year to fit these. Looks like the curvature of the stem allows the MC to rotate, allowing the levers to be placed at one's preferred angle. This change will move the riding position closer to my 1000SP position with barbacks; nice. Slightly lowered pegs a bit may just be the finishing touch. Price is probably dictated by the fact that not too many of these are sold but if this works...

Too bad Iti_57 is no longer on the Forum, the Helibars might have answered his question. It did mine, it'll take care of two problems for me. thanks, Rafael
 
Yes, the brake lines do have to be altered on the Breva 1100, but not on any of the models with ABS. I have them on my Norge, and they fitted with no problems.
 
Brian UK said:
Yes, the brake lines do have to be altered on the Breva 1100, but not on any of the models with ABS. I have them on my Norge, and they fitted with no problems.
Click to expand...

Actually I put them on a guys 1100 Breva. You just need a little cable stretcher :mrgreen: Just line it up then pop the top over to put the bar into place. This maneuver is not for the faint of heart.
 
Just put the Heli-bar risers on my 2007 B11. Great pairing with my new Corbin seat.

Yes, the installation did require some line and cable tugging. I think I really should replace my front brake line. I'm looking at Galfer lines - running a dual line system using a double banjo on top rather than the stock Tee'd line. So, what is the thread size? Any other suggestions?
 
Bruce,
Did you go with the stock split lines style or two separate lines? I wonder of Galfer kept the dimension info for the Breva 1100. Did your order directly from Galfer or a retailer? -thanks

After a comparison rides my 1000SP NT and B11, I found that that SP has a much more comfortable posture. My SP is set up with a bar-back from Harpers and SP II handle bars ( similar to original SP but swept back a little more and a tad wider). Seems that the HeliBars will achieve a similar posture and arm position. So the Helibars are on order for my first winter project. Ironically with the new arm position (angle) the need to adjust the clutch and bake levers by rotating the MCs forward will be reduced.
 
Got the Helibars on and a new Galfer front brake line in the stock configuration. The top segment was lengthened by 1 5/8 inch. I've only ridden with them a couple of hundred miles but find them are a lot more comfortable than stock. The Helibars are clearly higher and further back but the bars ends seem to be in the same spot, odd - but it works. I'm about 5'-11" with a 32" inseam, I think Helibars will make long rides more comfortable for riders my height and shorter. If your tall with long arms the expense may not be worth it, your only clear gain would be the clutch and MC lever angle adjustably. Oh, and the finish, they look great, but the only shortcoming is that they are not anodized. I just put a coat of synthetic wax on them. That the last care they'll get.
 
I've got the Helibars ready to fit to my Breva and have also got the brake lines.

The brake lines are "Hel" from http://www.brake-lines.co.uk/ I went for the Full Length Race Layout at £55, you can order the standard lay out for £84.

When ordering I wrote in the special instruction box "supply lines 50mm longer than standard" and this was done at no extra cost.

Also they have a choice of 19 colours? yes "19 COLOURS" also included is new banjo bolts and washers in a choice of 7 colours, all at no extra cost.

Bronco_Breva
 
For people in the USA, Moto-Heaven (in Pa) sells HEL brake lines and they are the same way, if you want them longer then stock they will do it for free. They do not list Guzzi on the web site but say instead to contact them.
 
bronco_breva said:
I've got the Helibars ready to fit to my Breva and have also got the brake lines.

The brake lines are "Hel" from http://www.brake-lines.co.uk/ I went for the Full Length Race Layout at £55, you can order the standard lay out for £84.

When ordering I wrote in the special instruction box "supply lines 50mm longer than standard" and this was done at no extra cost.

Also they have a choice of 19 colours? yes "19 COLOURS" also included is new banjo bolts and washers in a choice of 7 colours, all at no extra cost.

Bronco_Breva
Click to expand...

I know you haven't been around for a while bronco_breva but I too have gone the Helibar/Hel route and have a question.

Could do with knowing the length of full length race brake lines...

I have a none ABS 2005 Breva 1100 and have ordered a set of HeliBars that are still in customs but I received my Hel brake lines yesterday. I also requested these to be 50mm longer than standard (as per bronco_breva quoted post), full length race layout. What I received barely reaches the standard bars. The shorter of the two is approx. 76cm to the shoulders of the crimps and 78cm for the longer. There really doesn't seem to be enough length in these lines especially with the longer left hand caliper line. Once the headlight goes back on things get really tight!

Measuring the standard layout right caliper line, I get 77cm to the shoulders .

I'll be on the phone to Hel support tomorrow to see what they say or if I made a booboo. In away, I'm glad this has happened as one of the bleed nipples seemed to have been blocked with graphite grease! Hel notes do say, fitting new lines is a good time to fit stainless nipples. So new stainless nips it is then.

Any feedback on brake line lengths would be helpful. As for the 2006-2010 HeliBars on a 2005 Breva. I'm doing a product test :)
 
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