• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

clutch/brake lever adjust question

Some good news, my HeliBars are out of prison, I mean customs so should get them soon.

Also found the center to center length of HEL Performance full length race brake lines for Breva 2003-2008
HEL part code: HBF5858

RH Length: 800mm
LH Length: 820mm

HEL Performance are exchanging the standard lines for custom ones. Also of note is that the banjos are tunable, I wasn't sure before.
 
20cm seems too little difference between L & R to get to the left side, maybe the R side is a little long?? Post after you install the lines, and let us know how it goes.
 
I agree. First I think HEL reference RH line is 10mm too short. The 20mm difference between RH and LH is too little as the OE line is 80mm difference (T-join).

I measured to shoulders (not banjo centers) and on the OE line got 77cm for the RH line.

My HEL measurement was 76cm. After phoning HEL support I found center to center for left was 80cm and right 82cm. 20mm difference between RH and LH lines. 40mm difference between my measurement index and HELs.

So this would mean 2cm added for each banjo to my measurements to give center to center measurements.

Therefore the OE line would measure 81cm (77cm + 4cm) for the RH line and 89cm (80mm longer as measured from T-Join) for the LH line, center to center.

Because of the headlight housing, full length race layout lines would need to take the same path following the OE lines MC leg to the T-join. The LH race line could lose 1cm in length having a turn and not a T-join. This would give, perhaps, 88cm for the LH line race layout.

Now, the 7cm difference between lines looks more like it and should be a more comfortable fit.

From what I've read of your posts Rafael. You increased your standard OE brake line by 1.6" (40mm) on the MC leg for HeliBars fitting. I've gone for a 50mm increase (also read 2" line increase) but based on the new measurements and not on HEL part number HBF5858.

So I've asked for the:

RH line to be 860mm
(60mm longer than their standard)
(50mm longer than my measurements for the OE RH leg)
LH line to be 930mm
(110mm longer than their standard)
(70mm longer than the RH line)

I'll post my findings when fitted letting you know how I get on :)

see also: Hel(p) Brake Line Length
https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/188/9693.html
https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/188/9693
 
To reopen an old thread I see no answer to my current question. As mentioned on here the correct position is for you to be able to rest your fingers above the levers. On my 2012 Norge that is impossible as the small protrusion on the m/c hits the casting and prevents the rotation. I have tried the bar mounting screw and the lever clamp screw. It looks like I can gain a few degrees with grinding it off but not a lot. I take it no better solution has been found. On my 2007 Norge I don't remember this problem but it did have Helibars.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top