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Canisterectomy on the 2012 Stelvio

canuck1969 said:
What I meant was disconnect the tb vent hose from the canister (#8) and plug then end of the hose.
Click to expand...
Ah yes, very good, that will certainly do it. Don't forget the tip-valve.
 
You guys must have something different from mine (2012 US Spec Stelvio NTX). My throttlebodies have M6 threaded opening for the banjo nuts, and I replaced them with M6 short adapters from CarbMate.

Do we have different setups or have you just made a mistake? I am absolutely positive about my connectors being M6.
 
People, GET THIS CANISTER OUT! you will not be disappointed. I went today for a 620 kms trip, good part of it in 29 to 30 C temperatures. Bike runs MUCH smoother especially in the 3k to 4k RPM range, vibrations almost gone, I can not only feel it, but I can literally see it - my rear view mirrors are now steady. Fuel consumption better by about 5% and bike runs cooler by almost 15C (measured on engine block). My theory is that an extra air was sucked into cylinders through that canister, making the mixture lean. My 7200 kms on the clock is probably helping as well, making the bike better broken in.
Now I have to figure out how to synchronize my 2 cm Hg difference between cylinders without spending $230 on this Centurion tool. Any special deal around?
 
Get the VDST tool from Todd! It is an excellent tool and is worth every dime especially if you plan to keep the bike for any length of time. Besides, being able to work on your own motorcycle, correctly, is absolutely satisfying beyond words.
 
If you remove the canister you are unbalancing the A/F ratio ...... not necessarily the TB between one cylinder and the other but the amount of A/F ratio from idle to 3000rpm.
The ECU is set to maintain idle at 1200rpm with a control to open and close the air passage by a steppermotor.
If the steppermotor reaches its limits the throttle response between idle and 4000rpm will vary.

To balance the TB properly you definitly need the VDST.

Why it runs smoother?
Logically ...... because the canister had the 1port going to atmosphere the TB's had air being sucked into the cylinder.(Close loop was balanced with the steppermotor to maintain the recommended A/F ratio by the ECU)
When the canister is removed the closed loop system sees that it's missing some air and commands the steppermotor to open .... but the motor reaches its limit ...... air is at its maximum opening and the bike runs richer than required.

The balancing is done with the U tube or whatever differential vacumm gauge, the two bypass screws at idle, the setscrew (throttle body connecting rod) at 3k and keeping the stepper value on the VDST at midrange.
 
Canisterectomy complete. Couldn't get the canister out so just left it in and jumped around it with some gas hose I had lying around. Plugged off the hose going from the canister to the TB's so left them jumped together. Seems to idle more smoothly.

To late for a ride so will try it out tomorrow.

Just need to remove the tip over valve. Didn't see it up front so assuming that it is under the tank. Can someone please confirm this.

Thanks
 
canuck1969 said:
Cnister.jpg
Click to expand...
What are the dimensions (in mm) and the Guzzi part number for the banjo bolt o-rings (listed as item 11 in the figure)? I could not find that info on my copy of the parts manual.
Thanks!
 
Fantastic write up. No problems with the Stelvio yet but does anyone have a nice link, like this, on how to do the canisterectomy on a 2013 V7R?

Much appreciated.

Marc
 
Troy had written, "I recommend . . . taking a long piece of #8, and connecting them between both throttle bodies using the stock banjo fittings. That charcoal canister is a bear to get to, so best to just leave it unless you end up pulling the fairing and speedo assembly at some point down the road."
I followed this advice today, and can't believe the difference. Much smoother throttle, more progressive, less snatchy. I highly recommend embarking on at least this extremely easy route. One question: another poster recommended using vacuum caps on the tucked away #8's that used to go to the TBs, to keep bugs out. I did that, but now wonder if they should be uncapped to vent to the atmosphere? Is the tank no longer vented? [Edit: I found the answer when I stopped to get gas and opened up the gas tank to a whoosh of air: my tank was pressurized. So I vented the tank independently, as suggested in leafman's post here:
https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/topic?t=11035&p=83024
And all was better.]
 
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