-
Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
-
There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
-
Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
-
Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.
07 Breva 1100 High Idle
- Thread starter alguzzi
- Start date
How high is the idle? 1200 to 1400 is considered good for the engine. Any lower and there could be issues down the road.
Gerard2288
Just got it firing!
Hi, Did you get anywhere with this problem? I've got a similar one with my Norge. Idles normally when in neutral but rises and stays at about 1700rpm once I put it in gear. Any pointers would be appreciated!
Cheers Ged
Cheers Ged
alguzzi said:
It may be a stepper motor issue. Some have had luck achieving a good idle by placing a restriction in the air supply line to the stepper.
Bisbonian
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Have you tried synchronizing the throttle bodies and then resetting the TPS?
Some people have noticed their idle problems disappear after this simple procedure (simple if you have the tools anyway).
There are a few threads on disabling the stepper motor in the tech section if you want to go that way.
Some people have noticed their idle problems disappear after this simple procedure (simple if you have the tools anyway).
There are a few threads on disabling the stepper motor in the tech section if you want to go that way.
alguzzi said:
I've read a piece of plastic tube inserted in the line, or even a carb jet should work. I'd use a main so it would pass enough air to have an impact.
Penis Rotor
GT Godfather!
Not having the carbon canister on the earlier models I have to say i'm not familiar with this problem and it DOES seem to be related to the whole evaporative containment system. All I can imagine is that because the canister draws vapor using manifold depression through the canister that somehow this means that if 'Too Much' air is drawn through then the stepper is unable to reduce the flow sufficiently via its input to lower the engine speed to the target idle.
Disconnecting the canister would theoretically help in this case as it would reduce the air input to the manifolds, (As long as the vents were blocked off.). Also important to remember is that only ONE of the air bleeds should ever be open. If both are it can cause all sorts of unholy hell with idle speed. I'm sure the method for ballancing TB's has been covered more than adequately before?
Pete
Disconnecting the canister would theoretically help in this case as it would reduce the air input to the manifolds, (As long as the vents were blocked off.). Also important to remember is that only ONE of the air bleeds should ever be open. If both are it can cause all sorts of unholy hell with idle speed. I'm sure the method for ballancing TB's has been covered more than adequately before?
Pete
Yes Pete I have already Disconnected the canister and ran a piece of vacume line connecting the two vacume lines to each manifold.I am going to try and Reset the tps soon also i get a triangle with a ! that says service but no ecu errors or any dashboard errors.