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1100 California alternator test/removal

GuzziHero

GuzziHero

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
485
Location
Stoke-on-Bloody-Trent
I replaced the reg/rec on this bike last year, and it ran fine for ages, but now it has stopped charging.

When I replaced the R/R, it was taking 4000rpm to get a 13.5v charge so I suspect the alternator has popped. Are there any easy ways to test it? If not, how do I remove it to get it tested?

I am certain the R/R hasn't gone again, since this time it hasn't boiled all the acid out of the battery!

Thanks in advance.
 
There are two wires coming out of the stator, with a multimeter you can check for continuity of the coils. If they are open circuit then they are broken. Also check from one wire to the frame, there should be no connection.
If the output is low, then the most likely reason is that the rotor has lost some of its magnetic field, usually caused by storing it for a time without a keeper or within the stator.
But just check that all connections to the rec/reg are good, including the earth.
 
Okay, will check the reg/rec first, just in case I didnt install it right.

It did stop charging quite suddenly, so it's certainly worth a look. Thanks!

---
I just thought... the battery warning light is still going off when the engine is running, where is the sensor for this located?
 
On those two yellow wires, disonnect them from the regulator recifier. You should get about 20 VAC at idle, then up to about 80 VAC at high RPM. If you get these readings, the rectifier is at fault. If you don't get these voltages, it is the alternator.
 
Results:

Cross coils: full deflection
Coil to frame: no deflection
Power cross coils: very very little

Looks like the alternator. Are there any pattern models I could get for this, or does it have to be a specific model? Is it worth looking at a 'rewind'? And how do I get it off the bike.

Many thanks for your help so far, you guys are great. I appreciate your patience with a complete novice like myself.
 
GuzziHero said:
Results:

Cross coils: full deflection
Coil to frame: no deflection
Power cross coils: very very little

Looks like the alternator. Are there any pattern models I could get for this, or does it have to be a specific model? Is it worth looking at a 'rewind'? And how do I get it off the bike.

Many thanks for your help so far, you guys are great. I appreciate your patience with a complete novice like myself.
Click to expand...

Before you remove the alternator, Please do the voltage output check. If it turns out the alternator is bad, both the stator and rotor just unbolt. There is no drama getting the stator off like on the Bosch alternators.
 
The test is yellow to yellow. If are getting low voltage it indicates the alternator is a fault. You could try replacing just the stator if the magnets in the rotor are strong.
 
Are there any particular part numbers, Bosch/Marelli/Saprisa etc I should be looking for? I know these 95's were a bit of an oddball with some part from older models and some parts new for the 1100s.

I have a good electrical motor factors near me, so they should be able to sort me out.
 
GuzziHero said:
Are there any particular part numbers, Bosch/Marelli/Saprisa etc I should be looking for? I know these 95's were a bit of an oddball with some part from older models and some parts new for the 1100s.

I have a good electrical motor factors near me, so they should be able to sort me out.
Click to expand...

I believe all the 1100s used the Ducati Electrica system. Comparing your wiring to the schematics Carl has produced will answer your question definitively.
 
Thanks, you have been a great help as usual! :)

I have a couple more questions... I am thinking of putting an uprated generator in for running spotlights/highway lights and extra brake/tail lights. What would you recommend? Also, I have a Silent Hektik ignition system, would I have to make modifications to this if I uprated the alternator?
 
Just to finish this off...

The r/r was shorting, and possibly killed off my alternator (although that may have been damaged by the previous r/r failure so I cannot prove this).

I sent it back, got a replacement, and now it runs 14.5@5000rpm with lights off, and 14.35@5000rpm with headlights main beam. Seems OK to me.

Thanks to everyone who gave advice!
 
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