• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

2000 Bassa brake mystery Help

S

Sanders63

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 20, 2012
Messages
72
Location
Arkansas
Greetings once again,
Put this Bassa back together and runs out fine, but I have a mystery that I cannot understand on the linked front & rear Brake :?:
I originally used a brake pump to suck the fluid through the line on the linked front brake & did the same to the rear.
I could pump the brake up, but in a few minutes it would have to be pumped up again.
Then I pumped the rear brake lever tied it down & opened the bleeder on the front disc several times & repeated the procedure on the rear caliper.
Pump it up it does not hold.
Unlike my 1996 Cal the bassa has an extra valve or what ever between the rear caliper & the equalizer ( I don't know what it does) I have left it alone while doing all this & I have held it closed ( I guess).
Still no joy.
There is no fluid leaking any where.
I pumped the rear brake pedal up till it was hard tied it down to center stand with a bunji cord left it over night & it was still pumped up hard the next morning.
I released it & it no longer held pressure within 5 minutes.
Help :huh:
 
Up on the left side of the frame is the brake splitter. I don't remember if the Bassa has a bleed valve there or not, if she does there may be air trapped there. See if you can get some air out of that area as well. The linked system is difficult to bleed. I also try to raise the rear caliper as high as possible to help bleed that end of the line. When working on these systems I do everything I can to not open the system. I even replaced a frame on an EV and kept the linked system intact just because they are so hard to get right again. Keep at it. Eventually you will get it.

The only other issue I can think of that would prevent bleeding is a bad seal in the MC. Once you get it to hold pressure, upon moving the piston seal allows air into the system.
 
:D Hey John,
There was not a bleeder on the splitter, but from the start I kept saying it was really dumb for Guzzi or Brembo to put the bleeder below the brake line.
Sure enough I took the rear caliper off pulled it around so the bleeder was above the brake line, used the side stand in up position to hold it in position, put a piece of flat stainless between the pads & bled the rear brake for the umpteenth time & :eek: Wah Lah! the Bassa has rear brakes that don't go away in 5 min.
So if anyone else is having problems with bleeding the linked brakes try this.
Worked for me :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top