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2000 Jackal, won't idel

Huck369

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Sep 2, 2010
Messages
25
Location
Somerset, KY
My 2000 Jackal (25k miles) has just developed a problem idling, I thought maybe tight vales, but adjusted them, and still the same (they were with-in spec, but I adjusted them to be sure)
I did recently install an "Outsider" but I don't see as how that could effect the idle...

Runs and starts fine, just won't idle (basically the idle is too low)

I'm not new to bikes, but don't really know much about fuel injection....is there a place to adjust the idle on the fuel injection bikes, like on a carb'd one?

Thanks for any help,
 
So just back out the air by-pass screws a 1/4 turn at a time to bump up the idle, sounds simple enough.

What would have caused the idle to drop in the first place is what is worrying me..
 
Huck369 said:
So just back out the air by-pass screws a 1/4 turn at a time to bump up the idle, sounds simple enough.

What would have caused the idle to drop in the first place is what is worrying me..


TPS may be going bad. Do you have VDSTS for your machine? If not, it is worth getting.
 
john zibell said:
Huck369 said:
So just back out the air by-pass screws a 1/4 turn at a time to bump up the idle, sounds simple enough.

What would have caused the idle to drop in the first place is what is worrying me..


TPS may be going bad. Do you have VDSTS for your machine? If not, it is worth getting.
Nope, and didn't plan to get it....I wouldn't know what to do with it if I had it....
 
You are about 5 hours from me if you want me to take a look at it. You could contact Fred Samms in Knoxville and he may know someone in that area with VDSTS. I rode to Somerset ofter when I lived in Lexington.

This is a link to Techno Research service centers. http://www.technoresearch.com/Tuning_Ce ... ning_Links You could call some of them and see if they are familiar with Guzzi systems and hopefully one is close enough for you.
 
john zibell said:
You are about 5 hours from me if you want me to take a look at it. You could contact Fred Samms in Knoxville and he may know someone in that area with VDSTS. I rode to Somerset ofter when I lived in Lexington.

This is a link to Techno Research service centers. http://www.technoresearch.com/Tuning_Ce ... ning_Links You could call some of them and see if they are familiar with Guzzi systems and hopefully one is close enough for you.

Thanks for the info John (wish you still lived in Lexington!)
It looks like the Harley dealer in Lexington is a Technoresearch center....I may give them a call and see if they are familiar with the Guzzis...
Though one reason I got another Guzzi was I expected to not need to take it for service, as basic wrench turning I can do myself

Knoxville isn't to far either, and it runs fine out on the road, just doesn't seem to want to idle well, so for now it's just setting, and I'm riding my little commuter NX back and forth to work
 
Had some time to work on it last weekend...adjusted the TPS (was 09, now set at 15) still won't idle, and now is running worse, backfiring some...and it seems to be fouling the plugs....Going to get some new plugs and see if that helps.
 
Huck369 said:
Had some time to work on it last weekend...adjusted the TPS (was 09, now set at 15) still won't idle, and now is running worse, backfiring some...and it seems to be fouling the plugs....Going to get some new plugs and see if that helps.

New plugs won't help. I don't know what the 09 and 15 are in reference to. You shouldn't be moving the idle stop, but rotating the TPS. If you connect a DVM to pins one and three of the TPS you want to adjust to 524mV. It is easier to do with VDSTS ans you don't have DVM leads where you are trying to make adjustments. It is possible the TPS is going bad. If thisgs get really messed up, you can re-establish the baseline following the California Vintage procedure here https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/160/1676.html?start=30
 
Hi Huck

Did you get your hands on a VDSTS? How did you get those figures? I don't know the spec for the TPS idle setting off hand but they represent degrees of throttle open. Seems 15 is too high. Do you have carb stix, Syncpro or the equivalent for balancing the throttle bodies?

I've been tuning FI bikes for about a year now, once past the short learning curve. I think they are easier to deal with than carbs as far as tuning goes. Greg Bender has factory instructional videos on his web page. Carbs are just as much of a bitch to diagnose when there is a failure. Both systems need to be balanced, so that 's no different. I prefer the CarbMate an electronic balancer, it doesn't have to hung and the tolerance is adjustable. A diagnostic tool or software isn't much more complicated than reading a digital watch. IMO, guzzis are pretty easy to tune compared to their contemporaries. Inline 4 with DHOC, buried under a frame! no thanks - I like my rocker looking up at me! -while I'm sitting on a milk crate. The CARC guzzis are even easier to tune and seem to stay tuned - just need a minor adjustment at the service interval once they have been tuned properly.

Can someone instruct me how to create a link. I usually post the whole URL like this: http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2693
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/
 
Thanks for the help guys...
Well, I installed the new plugs (and you were right, it didn't really help)...
I got the reading with a multi-meter, said in a owners manual to set the TPS at 15 (.15)..

So since it was running worse, I loosed the TPS screws and started it and set it by ear this time, seemed to work, got it to idle well, and tightened the TPS screws, and decided to take it for a test ride, got about 1 1/2 miles was running great...then just shut down...upon stopping I had no fuel pump hum when I turned the key on, checked fuses, and the 2nd from the front was blown, put a new one in, and still no fuel pump hum, and no start (of course)
I haven't checked for spark (was too disgusted to mess with it last night after having to walk home and go back and load it on a trailer and haul it home)

I do have a sync tool (Vacuum), but not a VDSTS.....

I hate electrical stuff :( ...grumble, grumble, grumble....

So what should I be looking for now?
I'll check for spark tonight

(this is SUPPOSED to be my dependable bike.....)

it really bites to not have anyone local to take it too, and now that it doesn't run at all will have to be hauled somewhere if I can't fix it.

I really like this bike, but it is definitely trying me lately..


...side note, I don't get notifications from this thread, even though I have the "Notify me" box checked...any ideal why?....
 
Huck,

If you read the post I wrote, the 150 mV is for a completely closed throttle, then crank it up to 524mV.

As for not running now, go to the archives and get to Carl Allison's schematics. I'm suspecting a relay but hard to diagnose from this distance. If you give up, call me.
 
john zibell said:
Huck,

If you read the post I wrote, the 150 mV is for a completely closed throttle, then crank it up to 524mV.

As for not running now, go to the archives and get to Carl Allison's schematics. I'm suspecting a relay but hard to diagnose from this distance. If you give up, call me.


PM me your number, and I might take you up on it, when I'm working on it...
Did find out the fuse that was blown was to the ECU...what would cause that, surely not adjusting the TPS....

The fuse was a 15 amp (actually all of the fuses were 15 amp) but the manual says it should have been a 5 amp...
 
Hang in there Huck, you'll get through this with John Z's help. I can see you now posting a year from now. "How can I make my bike go faster?' or some such question.

Looks like you gonna have to study the wiring diagram. I use both the factory diagram and Carl Alison's; the color coding helps!

My buddy's Quota shorted out once, the culprit turned out to be the dangling GPS power supply.

good luck.
 
Looking like I need a new ECU...
Thanks for the help John (and everyone else)
I'm pretty swamped with bills right now, so unless I find a good deal on a used ECU, the Jackal will probably be setting for a while...
 
Well, installed another used ECU last week, blew it too, but did run for a bit with it.
now it's back to blowing the ECU fuse as soon as the key is turned to "On"

Found that is I unhook one of the 3 wires going to the positive side of the battery, it doesn't blow the fuse, I haven't traced it down yet, but thinking it might be the wire that goes to the regulator, would a bad regulator cause this? I mean it blows the fuse as soon as I turn the key to on, never even cranking the motor over, so the alternator can't be putting out any power at that point.....

If so where is the cheapest place to get a new regulator ? (or good used one)
And I'll be needing ANOTHER ECU too, so if anyone has one (preferably cheap) let me know what you have and how much via PM

Have I said before that I hate electrical stuff? :sick:
 
Once you trace that wire let us know. The regulator/rectifier circuit shouldn't be blowing the ECU fuse, but stranger things have happened. If it is the rectifier line, it also feeds the ignition switch. Spend some tine with the schematic for your bike https://www.guzzitech.com/guzzi007/s ... Jackal.gif to truly isolate the faulty component before buying more parts.
 
I've stepped back form this for a while, as I'm disgusted with it, I can't find anything wrong with it, can't find the source of the short...
Anyone have any more ideals.....caused me to miss the KY Rally already this year......
 
Huck369 said:
I've stepped back form this for a while, as I'm disgusted with it, I can't find anything wrong with it, can't find the source of the short...
Anyone have any more ideals.....caused me to miss the KY Rally already this year......

You said when you leave a wire off of the battery, the fuse doesn't blow. Until you identify where this wire goes I don't think we can add anything to the discussion.
 
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