• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

2004 Breva 750 not wanting to downshift

B-rad

Just got it firing!
Joined
Oct 23, 2011
Messages
10
Location
Pelham, AL
I just got this bike a couple of days ago and I love riding it, but the only way I can get it to downshift is to slightly lift the shift lever with my toe, then push down. I have tried extending and shortening the shift link, and I also tried lubricating the heim joints. Nothing. I read in another post that if the lever is mounted wrong on the spline, it may not downshift. Any help would be appreciated.
 
B-rad said:
I just got this bike a couple of days ago and I love riding it, but the only way I can get it to downshift is to slightly lift the shift lever with my toe, then push down. I have tried extending and shortening the shift link, and I also tried lubricating the heim joints. Nothing. I read in another post that if the lever is mounted wrong on the spline, it may not downshift. Any help would be appreciated.

Does the shift lever return to center on it's own? If not check for any binding on the shift linkage. Although you didn't say anything about up shifting problems, another possibility is the shift return spring since you say slightly lifting the lever allows you to downshift.
 
B-rad said:
I read in another post that if the lever is mounted wrong on the spline, it may not downshift. Any help would be appreciated.

If so, and the position of the lever suits you, this is the solution.

3538390229_92b84fe1a3_z.jpg


If not, It's probably as John suggested.
 
I am gonna disassemble the whole thing and try setting it up on a different notch on the spline shaft. I really don't wanna cut up the lever, but if that is what it takes, i definately have some experience with taking a dremel to my bike. Being a former ducati owner it seems like that was the norm, not the exception. As for the return spring, let's just not speak of that. It looks like i would rather drive the thing off a cliff rather than replace the spring :lol:
 
Just spent 4 hours screwing with this hunk of crap. No matter what position on the spline it hangs up internally. You can feel a slight rub that puts up just enough resistance to stop the lever from returning to center. I am so upset right now. I traded a perfectly running Monster for this bike and I just want my old bike back. The MG dealer in atlanta said that replacing the spring is like 500 bucks. I never let anyone work on my duc, but this thing is so friggin complex I don't know what to do. :(
 
Holy Crap!!! I just went out to the garage, and rolled the bike backwards like a 1/4 of an inch, and the damn shifter totally shifted up and down through all the gears without getting hung up! I moved it back forward and it went right back to hanging up. So I now know that it is not the spring, and it is not the linkage. What now? Why the sweetspot? is the driveshaft an issue? Is it the clutch? I am so confused??? :woohoo:
 
At this point I'd try an oil change with a really slippery synthetic gear oil. My preference in Mobil 1 75W 90 for transmissions. From the description there is some drag on the shifting pawl that a bit of fresh oil might just help. Anyway, fresh oil wouldn't hurt.
 
I just turned the bolt next the shifter on the back of the trans. I put it at the 3 o'clock position and now it won't upshift :evil: Where does this thing need to be set???
 
B-rad said:
I just turned the bolt next the shifter on the back of the trans. I put it at the 3 o'clock position and now it won't upshift :evil: Where does this thing need to be set???

That bolt is used to center the spring/pawl assemble. Keep messing with it until it will allow both up shift and downshift. Turn it back the other way. However don't turn more than 90 degrees or so in any direction. Just move it a little bit at a time until everything works as desired. These are usually set correctly at the factory. If you look at a service or parts manual you may be able to see the relationship of these parts.
 
I took the bolt out, drilled a dot on the head of it and put a dab of paint in the dot so I now know exactly where the cam is at. I then put it back in and got to tinkering. At 3 o'clock I had no upshift, at 12 I have to do the thing with my toe to downshift. I know I am getting close, but this has been one hell of an ordeal.
 

Attachments

  • SAM_0440.JPG
    SAM_0440.JPG
    220.8 KB · Views: 418
Guzzi came out with new shifter thats inside trany replaced mine and never had problem again Only thing means tearing trany completely down good thing its an easy one to do
lance
 
Well, if anyone has any info on any sort of recall I would appreciate it. I seem to have adjusted it to where it is as good as I can get it. It still sometimes acts wierd on 2nd to 3rd gear upshifts and 2nd to 1st gear downshifts. I changed to redline 75-90 in the gearbox but still sometimes gotta dance on the shifter
 
Dealer in Atlanta said that it was not a recall, just a service bulletin. That translates into we know it's a problem, but it's up to you to take care of it. God I miss my Duc :cry:
 
When I first got my V7, after a few hundred miles I had the same thing.
Down shifts a nightmare and as for neutral, forget it.
I guessed that the clutch cable had stretched a bit so I took in the slack a few turns and that solved it.
Gearbox was like a swiss watch after that.
Basic stuff.
Might have been worth trying before going through all this
:eek:
 
Back
Top