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2007 1200 Sport battery troubles

Barney

Just got it firing!
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
12
I have a 1200 Sport which I have done 37000 ks on .
I have replaced 1 battery about 6 months ago.
The bike has been standing about 1 week and now that battery is dead.
When the first one died I had covered about 300ks that morning and stopped for 5 mins.
When I went back to the bike the battery was dead.
Has the Alternator got a belt? If it does , how do you get to it? If it doesnt has anyone got any suggestions.
How many owners have had the standard muffler break away at the welds and how long did they last? Mine lasted 25 months and MG didnt want to know.
Any relevant comments appreciated.
Thanks
 
Since the battery lasted 6 months, the belt is probably still in place. Go to the downloads section of this site for the manuals. What kind of voltage are you getting at the battery? If you search the site for battery issues, they are prone to corrosion at the battery which can seem like a dead battery as everything will go out. Also check the battery ground behind the starter cover. All this sounds so familiar. A little searching before asking can get you a long way. Also as Pete Roper states, if the battery isn't prepped correctly, it won't last long. Pete is a working Guzzi mechanic in your area, you should look him up if you need hands on technical support.
 
Thanks for reply!
There is no corrosion.
Terminals are like new .
The earth lead is tight.
The instruments light up, but injector pump will not run and starter will not turn over motor.
I am getting 13.5 volts at battery when running, checked when new battery fitted.
My average days run is 450-500ks, no short running.
I have no way of knowing if the Alternator is consistantly charging, cannot tell if it has a holiday from time to time.
The bike shows no signs of loosing power on a run ( engine power) never any missfire etc.
I trickle charge the battey at 2 amps for 12 hours so battery should not be over heated.
How do I get to see the belt?
Al the above was check before I called for help.
Thanks.
 
Barney said:
Thanks for reply!
I am getting 13.5 volts at battery when running, checked when new battery fitted.
My average days run is 450-500ks, no short running.
I have no way of knowing if the Alternator is consistantly charging, cannot tell if it has a holiday from time to time.

Seems like you battery was charging fine if you saw 13.5 volts with the motor running. I wouldn't bother removing the belt cover. Rather, I'd check the fuses, especially fuses (c) & (d) plus the 30A one feeding these (g) as illustrated in the owner's manual.
 
Barney said:
Al the above was check before I called for help.
Thanks.

That information should have been stated in the original post. It gives us a starting point with more information. Too bad Pete is so far away.
 
Thanks guys.
The fuse c was blown.
I am now concerned as to what caused it to blow.
It hasnt been wet corroded etc.
I have checked it again this AM and no problems.
Battery is showing 13.7 volts.
Other than carryng a handfull of spare fuses , are there any known weaknesses in the started motor circuit? I assume it would be the starter solinoid circuit that is in question. When the fuse was blown I could hear a faint clicking sound,is there a Relay down there somewhere or something else.
My nearest dealer is 300+ks away so nipping down is not that wise.
 
Barney said:
T
Other than carryng a handfull of spare fuses , are there any known weaknesses in the started motor circuit?

Yes there are, a suggested upgrade is to provide separately fused power to the starter relay directly from the battery. The thread on how to do it is on the board. It is in detail in the small block section but also referenced I believe in the Breva, Norge, Sport section.
 
Thanks very much for that.
Have done similar mods to 60s cars.
You would think Guzzi would have fixed the problem by now.
Is the fracture of the muffler at the mounting bracket weld points a common fault? Mine broke at 25 months MG was not interested.
 
Barney said:
Is the fracture of the muffler at the mounting bracket weld points a common fault? Mine broke at 25 months MG was not interested.

Not usually unless the bike has been dropped, the muffler isn't fitted correctly or has been replaced with an aftermarket muffler that imposes different stresses on the centrepiece. Having said that I have warrantied one centrepiece on a stock 1200 Sport.

With all due respect the warranty is for 24 months. Most bikes and many cars have the same warranty period. Did you have a full service history and was your bike stock standard when the failure occured? If so I've usually managed to wangle a bit of an extension but Ken now tells me that trying to get ANYTHING over 24 months is like getting blood from a stone. This is not the importer, it's Piaggio. If the bike has been modified in any way or doesn't have a full 'Book' service history? All bets are off, and I really can't see anything wrong with that. You can't expect the company to warranty poorly maintained or modified machinery??

Pete
 
Bike is totally stock.
I understand the 24 month thing. The bike does have a full service history. We have some very ordinary roads around here which I am sure is a contributing factor.
I have welded a band around the muffler and attached the original bracket to that. The material which the bracket is attached / welded to originally would only be 1mm thick. I notice the new ones have a strap so the fix is in.
 
Have done the power lead from battery to relay mod suggested.
It works a treat. No hesitation as it did before .
However I did leave the original wiring in place. Just solder a 6mm wire to the original spade terminal "neatly" and it will slide into the original socket hole. I have put a 15 amp fuse in line.

Thanks vey much for your help.
 
This cracking is common with the 1200 Sport (2v) muffler, my muffler only lasted 4500km before breaking. A lot of people in Australia had the same problem, and ended up getting a free upgrade to the stage 1 exhaust. See 1200 Sport forum for details.
 
Barney said:
Have done the power lead from battery to relay mod suggested.
It works a treat. No hesitation as it did before .
However I did leave the original wiring in place. Just solder a 6mm wire to the original spade terminal "neatly" and it will slide into the original socket hole. I have put a 15 amp fuse in line.

Thanks vey much for your help.

Probably should disconnect the original wire from the relay. You may be making items live with the key off that you don't want live. I didn't check the schematic, but you should.
 
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