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2007 B750 EFI/mapping ?? Poor running below 4,000

jest2dogs

Just got it firing!
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Messages
23
I really should be working on that our bathroom remodel project but here I am. What would make me think that talking about motorcycles would be more enjoyable than sanding, sawing, painting and plumbing? Hmmm :O)

Recently had the 6,000 mile service done on the Breva (at 6,700 mi). The TB's were out of sync. I saw the mech balancing them with the mercury vacuum tubes. What makes them go out of sync? I can understand carburetors with all their machanical parts wearing differently but an EFI controlled TB? (I recall my Beemer days balancing Bings with individual choke and throttle cables, diaphragms, etc. After it was gone it drove me to buy a Royal Enfield for, if not less maintenanace, at least simpler maintenance. (Ha Ha)

Later, after I found my wife enjoying riding pillion, in need of more touring room and power... Well, I was drawn to the Breva on the first test ride. I actually drove it home that day. EFI, I thought, was the cure for multiple carburetor issues.

Micha, at MI, explained that some less than smooth running was expected at some lower rpm levels due to EPA tuning restrictions. Or, as I call it "Teaching to the test". A poor way to teach and a poor excuse for making an engine run badly.

So, after the 6,000 mile service she seemed to run better, warmed up sooner f'sure. There was still that 2,500 and 3,000 rpm leanness around town. And, cresting 4,000 rpm, a little vibration/roughness which I remember when I was breaking it in.

But now I get another phenomenom. I'll start her, let her warm up enough not to stumble off the blocks (less time needed now than before, as noted) and bimble 4-5 miles through town to the open road. I'll go at least 15-20 miles at 4,000+ rpm/ 60+mph and then back into town. Now, back in town, she runs like crap. Though the tach needle will show an even 3,500 or 3,700, if she is below 4,000 she seems to hunt and surge like she does at the EPA mandated test levels. As I mentioned to Micha, the runners are equally pacing each other but they are puking.

At a time when folks can read the logo on the tank she is running poorly. Bad advertising!

It has been indicated to me that, due to liability I assume, the dealer cannot suggest or install non-standard mapping. I may have asked this before, but is there a map that allows this great little engine to run as it should? Do the European versions have this quirk? I know this site has a map available, but is there a stock map (like the V7C version) that solves these issues or ???

I imagine, because I do not really understand EFI or what mapping actually is, or how it's accomplished, that after a highway run at 4,000 + rpm and upon suddenly comng into town, it must be like a sprinter suddenly forced to walk and take shallow breaths rather than panting to keep up with his heartrate. Forced by a strangling map/EPA guideline and not helped instead, by a rich midrange circuit that would help cool off a hot engine.

Is that why these small blocks run so hot? Is the the EPA mapping forcing them to run leaner than engine parameters demand?

I hear some complaining about overun or deceleration "popping"after installing some new maps. What's with this?

I think this is a sweet little bike. I love the way it handles. I did not expect to like it as much as I do (I was looking to buy a V7C at the time). But what can be done to help it run more smoothly?

Not that I am into a "cruising" image, but it sure is embarrassing to ride through town with a strangled, or rather, underfed, engine that feels like it's stumbling under your seat.

And yet, I am told, that mine is one of the best running Breva 750's they've seen (at MI).
To me, "this" is a smooth running MG:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Chd2rdej ... re=related

Comments, please.
 
Jest, so it ran poorly below 4k, after a higher rpm run on the highway. Does it always run poorly at low rpm, or only after a highway run?

It could be a bunch of issues. At half throttle or below the mixture is controlled by the oxyen sensor, which adjusts the air-fuel mix depending on what it detects in the exhaust. It could be that the sensor is bad, or it merely could be that the bike is running poorly at the lean mixture the factory has it set to for emission purposes.

One fix for the mixture is the Power Commander. It's expensive and you need a shop, but you can adjust the mix across the rpm band for optimum performance. The FatDuc is cheaper and you install it yourself, but with more limited performance gains. It changes the oxy sensor signal to richen the mix in the lower rpm area. I'm playing with a homemade version of the FatDuc myself. I hope to dynamometer the bike with it to get a real view of the performance.

But, it might not be the mix at all, but a different issue.

Joe
 
Power Commanders are a good thing in my experience. Two out of the three Guzzis I own have one. They do not require a shop to install them or use them, but to get a custom map you either need a shop with a dyno or an AutoTune module (not sure if it is available for the 750).
I don't have a 750, but I have not heard of others complaining of your issue. It may be that others have not noticed it, but if they all do it I would expect at least a few people to mention it here.
If it is not something they all do then there may be something not quite right with your bike.
 
I just installed a FATDUC on my 750 about 2 weeks ago and the bike runs so much smoother below 4000 rpm. The benefits so far are 1. quicker warmup, no hesistation on cold mornings. 2. You can lug the motor at lower rpm without any shuttering. 3. Pulls away from a standing stop without fear of stalling. 4. The bike runs smoother, really a joy to ride.
 
I am sorry—or should I say—happy to say that I have not experienced any of the issues with my Breva 750 that you mention occur on your Breva 750. Interesting. In fact, when I get off the highway after doing a few miles at 5.500 r.p.m. I notice that the bike runs even smoother when in town. I am never running below 3.000 rpm. Very, very smooth little engine.
 
Joe,

Bike runs understandably cold at first around town. At ~2,500 and 3,000 rpm are stumbling zones but otherwise okay. If I leave the enricher on as I have by oversight in the past I find her to be a zippy quarter horse around town.

After a highway run when she's good and warm she acts terribly aound town under 4,000. In fact it kinda deflates the joy of the ride I just had.

A couple here have posted about the FatDuc of which I know very little. I need to have a look at that, too.

Even Micha at MI has now perked up at the thought that I might want a PC. (Bike is now out of warranty ;) He explained that the factory EFI system on these small blocks is quite rudimentary and that explains a lot. Of course it would be the aftermarket gurus who would find the solutions! :D

I just don't have a lot of liquid assets with which to play. I don't mind popping for a PC, if will fix the problem. Trouble is I have a lot of spare parts for projects that didn't quite do the job (not all motorcycle related).

I need more research.
 
It might be nothing to do with EFI/mapping etc. My breva 750 had similar symptoms and it was the right hand coil starting to fail!!


I wrote about this on this forum under the heading 'V7 running rich on one cylinder, stalling'
 
Jest,

It sounds like you have a real issue, a problem. That has to be solved before you starting playing with a FatDuc or PC. You can check the bike's sensors and other parameters with a dealer who has an Axone or Navigator, or with a fellow rider who has Vehicle Diagnostic Scan Tool (VDST) from TechnoResearch. I suggest checking the bike with one of these instruments, before getting an aftermarket item to adjust the air-fuel mix.

Usually at a rally there will be someone with a VDST running, or perhaps you can find someone one a web group who's close by. I've got one, it's better to check it yourself at your leisure, than beholden to a dealer's technician.

Joe
 
Take notice on Colins and Joes respondings. Do the little things first, as checking coils, cords, plugs, injection, tank-ventilation, sensors etc. If you own a VDST, let it run.
Things appearing a long time after purchase really can't be blamed on wrong mappings, and won't be solved by adding various doo-hickeys.
When you've found the cause, and repaired it , the gadgets may add some value and make you happy.

I've at a few occasions experienced short time poor runnings after long and hard driving at high temperatures. Guess it's temperature-related, as the newer EFI SBs gets really really hot at such conditions.
Never been lasting, though. After some resting and cooling down, it's always been fine again.

Maybe you're feeling a personal thing. Any Italian needs a siesta after hard work. :D
 
Holt, et al,

Thanks for your perspectives.

I posed the question (re: mapping) because I do not know enough about the computer system to know its comprehensive limits.

The suggestions you have made are duly noted. I have suggested to the service department at my Guzzi dealer that perhaps they can run an initial diagnostic for me. I do not have local access to VDST. Is it possible for the bike's computer to be set when the bike has not yet acquired a good normal running temperature? (I really am shooting in the dark here because I know nothing of how computer controlled bikes work). For instance, I set the valves on my Royal Enfield when the motor is at its hot, running temperature. Are computer settings done on engines at operating temperatures, or do they just say, "When temp. reaches X, then this should happen"?

Obviously, I come from a "hands on" age of wrench on bolt, not fingers on keyboard. ;)

I have learned that the O2 sensor is probably the last thing in the system to heat up on these small blocks. Could it be that settings were made on a partially warm motor, thus when it does reach regular operating temp, the adjustments are then "off"? I certainly want to rule out existing, adjustable avenues before I go spending money on accessories.

-Jesse, the Dynosaur (sic on porpoise :O)
 
jest2dogs said:
Holt, et al,



I have learned that the O2 sensor is probably the last thing in the system to heat up on these small blocks. Could it be that settings were made on a partially warm motor, thus when it does reach regular operating temp, the adjustments are then "off"? I certainly want to rule out existing, adjustable avenues before I go spending money on accessories.

-Jesse, the Dynosaur (sic on porpoise :O)
The O2 sensor has a heater built in. If it is in good working order it should get up to temp quickly.
 
Jesse, if the dealer can take a look on their computer diagnostic equipment (Axone, etc) that should shed some light better than our guesses.

Yes, adjustments to the bike should be done on a warmed up machine, but I like to think the dealership would do that. As Nola said, the Guzzi's oxygen sensor has it's own heating element, so it get to temperature quickly. Don't worry about that.

About the valves on your Enfield, you set them when the engine is hot, or cold? Most engines call for the valves to be set on a cold engine. Dead cold, as in sitting overnight. It's one of the only adjustments that are made on a cold engine, instead of a warm one.

Joe
 
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