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2011 V7 Classic Intermittent Engine Light and running rough

mthydro

mthydro

Just got it firing!
Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Messages
11
Hey guys, I'm new to the board, but have been trolling for a while!

I'm having some issues with my V7C. It has 3900kms and all of it's service is up to date. About 1-week ago the bike started having an intermittent check engine light. When the light came on, the bike ran rough, almost misfiring. Here's what has happened as a result:
  • Local dealer hooked up to PADS and no codes even though light was illuminated. They checked the bulletins regarding amber lights. The plug wire going to the coil was kinked and they moved that. I road home and the problem persisted
  • It was recommended on another board that I install new plugs, add a bit of injector cleaner, fresh fuel and take it for a run. One plug looked okay, but the other was in bad shape (pic attached). I took the bike for a run and it ran fine for about 5 minutes and then it started again with the engine light and hesitation.
  • I was told I should check the plug wires now.
b0b86f2d-1d92-4d3d-a6d5-1b0bd61992c1.jpg

THanks

Mike
 
If the check engine light is on, there will be error codes to see/read, that will likely point you to the root of the problem. If the bike has sat for an extended period, clogged injectors can not be cleaned by an additive. Remove them and find a shop that can professionally/pressure clean them. This is purely a fueling issue unless the air tract/filter are clogged. Highly doubt it's the plug wires, especailly if the bike starts/runs OK with new plugs. Post again.
 
GT-Rx® said:
If the check engine light is on, there will be error codes to see/read, that will likely point you to the root of the problem. If the bike has sat for an extended period, clogged injectors can not be cleaned by an additive. Remove them and find a shop that can professionally/pressure clean them. This is purely a fueling issue unless the air tract/filter are clogged. Highly doubt it's the plug wires, especailly if the bike starts/runs OK with new plugs. Post again.
Click to expand...

When they hooked it up it threw no codes, which is odd considering the engine light is on.

I bought the bike used in Feb 2014 with only 350kms on it. The previous owner bought it and never rode it. I had no issues with the bike up until a week ago.

My dealer wants to take another look at it, so I'm dropping it there tomorrow
 
Sooty plugs are indications of rich mixture or poor ignition. The dealer is tending towards weak ignition but what if it was the former? The V7's are generally very lean fueled machines, so a sooty plug might indicate a leaking injector. This could happen if the bike has been stored over winter and no stabilizer used in the fuel. Ethanol-laced fuel could gum up and cause an injector either to stick open or fail to close fully. Do you fill up with Shell 91 V-power or another brand? Did you winterize with Red stabilizer this past winter (not the Blue stuff)?
 
rbm said:
Sooty plugs are indications of rich mixture or poor ignition. The dealer is tending towards weak ignition but what if it was the former? The V7's are generally very lean fueled machines, so a sooty plug might indicate a leaking injector. This could happen if the bike has been stored over winter and no stabilizer used in the fuel. Ethanol-laced fuel could gum up and cause an injector either to stick open or fail to close fully. Do you fill up with Shell 91 V-power or another brand? Did you winterize with Red stabilizer this past winter (not the Blue stuff)?
Click to expand...

I always fill up with Shell 91 and during the winter months I used red Stabil in the tank. The bike ran fine for the first few weeks this year and has only started acting up about 1-week ago
 
Have you measured the resistance of the coil's primary and secondary windings (the one related to the carboned plug)? Might be a bad coil. Compare values to the known good coil.
 
Could be the spark plug boot. Not firing all the time due to a poor connection. Pull on the cap and see if it comes off easily. If it does, trim the plug wire a couple of cm, and thread the cap back on. Mine was doing the same thing, and this solved the problem for me. The cap threads on, it is not crimped.
 
This problem is still on-going. My dealer had the bike for a couple of days last week and checked the following:
  • Spark plug boots and wires
  • Ignition coil
  • Injectors
They thought it was fixed and then 5-minutes from the shop, the light came on and the bike began running rough. It only runs rough when the light comes on. As a result they tried a few other things:
  • Swapped in a new o2 sensor (didn't make a difference)
  • Left side muffler was showing heat spots (swapped that, but no difference)
  • Swapped in a new ECU (reset TPS, etc, and no difference)
Still having the issue with an intermittent check engine light, which is coming from the left side. The bike runs okay when the light is not on.

ANy other ideas??
 
There's only one way to check if an injector is working properly that I know of and it's a flow test. Ideally both injectors would be tested at the same time. That does take special equipment that I'm sure the Dealer doesn't have. Just checking the resistance on the injector doesn't give you flow information.

Here's a pic from someone that I use.

doctorinjector.net/7343.html

I wonder if the Dealer swapped injectors as a injector test.
 
Could it be either of the temperature sensors? Without good documentation on the Marelli 15RC ECU, it's guess work to figure out the problem. The PADS software is supposed to do that.

On older BMWs, temp sensors that act up or fail cause havoc with the fuelling. These thermistors used on the V7 should be standard thermistors so measuring their resistance might be indicative. Seems all the other parts have been swapped and eliminated as potential sources.
 
Could it be as simple as changing the fuel you put in it. Mine ran rough for months, the dealer did what was recommended from Moto Guzzi tech, checked ECU etc, made no difference. I changed from 98 (here in NZ) to 91, what a difference....was going to get the ECU re-flashed, but no need, have not looked back since.
 
Mthydro says he uses Shell V-power 91 exclusively. It's a great fuel -- 0% ethanol content. I run the same fuel in both my motorcycles. Changing fuel brands won't alter this problem.
 
Thanks for all of the help guys. I really appreciate it. Was so much easier troubleshooting on my 73 CB450 haha

I'm going to swap injectors from side to side to see if the issue heads over to the right side. If it does, then a bad injector is my problem. Dealer said they checked them, but they don't have the proper device to clean them.
 
if the problem is only one side do swop inj's first . my experience says they will be faulty . had them do this from new ! in front of a man from Piaggio , they rejected the warranty claim !
 
One question, do I need to de-pressurize the fuel system before removing them, if so, how is that done. Also, is there any trick for removing them?
 
just run the bike with the electrics to tank, disconnected. the injector is held in with o-rings , pull it out and swop left to right , don't lose the clip on the electrical connector , you can't buy them . ride it . if problem has moved you have solution.
 
Last night I swapped the injectors from side to side and thereby located the issue.....a bad injector. The right plug was now becoming fouled and that cylinder was running rough. The left side was now running great.

Now just to get a new injector!
 
mthydro said:
Last night I swapped the injectors from side to side and thereby located the issue.....a bad injector. The right plug was now becoming fouled and that cylinder was running rough. The left side was now running great.

Now just to get a new injector!
Click to expand...


If you are in the US, send both to RC engineering rceng.com/ Having them cleaned and tested by them is cheaper than a new injector.
 
Good you found the problem. Get your injector cleaned at a local shop instead of buying new. Any diesel shop should be able to do the job; performancediesel.ca/ is one such shop in Markham (Woodbine/Steelcase). Should only cost $20.00 or so.

You might be able resurrect the failing injector using DIY cleaning techniques. k100-forum.com/t3024-cleaning-fuel-injectors
 
I doubt you'll get the injectors as clean if you do it yourself.

Check with the Injector cleaning company because many injectors require different apparatus to clean them and test them. The might not have the proper "holders", I see AF1 Racing does.

The real bonus about using an injector cleaning company is that they'll test the flows and replace the rubber.

Finally if you send the injectors off to be clean make sure you insure them when you ship.

Good luck and let us know how it all turns out.

Right now I have my daughters' MR2 injectors out and in a local cleaning shop. Unfortunately for me I am her chief mechanic as well as chief carpenter/tile layer/ drywall installer for the old tear-down she bought last year. It's really cut into my little-used-road investigations of the northern sierras.
 
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