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2012 v7c Evap removal

Mike Collins

Mike Collins

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 16, 2016
Messages
21
Location
NH Seacoast
I just removed the Evap can, plugged the ports with vacuum hose caps as well as the air box port on right side of bike with a larger rubber vacuum hose cap. Did a test ride everything seems fine. I did not pull the orange and blue check valve from the tank vent Line. Was I supposed to?

Thanks for any input.

Mike
 
Mike Collins said:
I just removed the Evap can, plugged the ports with vacuum hose caps as well as the air box port on right side of bike with a larger rubber vacuum hose cap. Did a test ride everything seems fine. I did not pull the orange and blue check valve from the tank vent Line. Was I supposed to?

Thanks for any input.

Mike
Click to expand...
You plugged all the ports? On. My 2013 I think I only plugged the air box one the rest were left to hang under the bike. I removed the check valve because i was having problems with it.
 
Plug only the line to the intake manifold. The other line is to the tip valve to fuel tank drain. Leave that open. Insure your tip valve functions properly, and you can leave it for now.
 
Image Image So don't plug the air box like I did (see pic). I used a rubber vacuum cap, you can see in this pic upper left next to Ecu. I did plug the manifold intake as well.
 
Just pulled mine ('14 stone). Twice in the past few weeks she quit on me and struggled to run. Checked tank pressure the second time and had a very slight bit when opening the cap, so figured I'd try this fix. Starting to think its the check valve. It does seem to idle better, but still some pressure building in the tank and the vent line still mooing like a cow after Shutting down. I'm assuming it's safe to remove the valve? Only checked it stationary, haven't road tested it yet.
 
I left my check valve in, have not had a running issues with it. It does moan a bit though. Going to put her a way soon, starting to get chilly in the north east.
 
I removed mine I had a huge vacuum seal sound when opening tank. Installed a new vent line made sure it was not kinked. Just get some fuel dripping when tank is full. All under the advice from Todd at Guzzitech.
 
Well, I put a full day on her Sunday and she runs notably better without the canister/engineered in vacuum leak. Settles into an even idle quicker on start up and definitely ran a bit smoother below 4K RPM with less surge/bucking and a lot less popping on deceleration. Only real mods I've done to this motor in the 4800 miles so far have been the plug caps (yes they were arcing) and now this. I would recommend both as a good starting point before jumping into other mods. One thing I failed to mention was that as I was doing this, there is a small drain hose that was zip tied to the canister hoses under the frame that I think is the over fill/cap drain? well, mine simply fell out- doesn't look like it was ever pushed on to anything tight and no clamp on it. Will have to wait for the fuel filter change- not pulling the tank just for that. Appreciate the replies!
 
Wahoo650 said:
Well, I put a full day on her Sunday and she runs notably better without the canister/engineered in vacuum leak. Settles into an even idle quicker on start up and definitely ran a bit smoother below 4K RPM with less surge/bucking and a lot less popping on deceleration. Only real mods I've done to this motor in the 4800 miles so far have been the plug caps (yes they were arcing) and now this. I would recommend both as a good starting point before jumping into other mods. One thing I failed to mention was that as I was doing this, there is a small drain hose that was zip tied to the canister hoses under the frame that I think is the over fill/cap drain? well, mine simply fell out- doesn't look like it was ever pushed on to anything tight and no clamp on it. Will have to wait for the fuel filter change- not pulling the tank just for that. Appreciate the replies!
Click to expand...
Pulling the tank is actually a very easy quick task as long as it is low on fuel.
 
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