2015 V7 head torque

[Vagrant]

I did the head torque and then the valves at 600 miles. I had a 40 year old spring type 1/2" wrench then. I now have a 3/8 clicker brand new. The bike now has 8500 so it's time to check the valves again. for the experts only should I crack the head bolts and do them again??? Or leave them alone.

 

[GTM®]

If your base gaskets aren't leaking, you are probably good. However, can't hurt to check while you're in there. Don't loosen, just tighten to see.

 

[sib]

I re-checked mine at the second service, 10,000 km (~6200 mi), just so that I could sleep easier.

 

[oldlegs]

Me too, Steve

 

[Kev M]

I can't see a good reason to disturb them again.

If you're really worried have the calibration checked on the old wench.

But using the new wrench doesn't really tell you anything, not if you just put it on the fasteners and see if it clicks.

Of course you can do a full crack-in check but why?

And if anything you're risking damage to the bolts and gaskets. What if it was over-torqued the first retorque? It's been the way for a while now, the threads may have stretched some and the gaskets compressed even more than intended. Retorquing now to a slightly lower clamp load helps how?

 

[Vagrant]

I can't see a good reason to disturb them again.

If you're really worried have the calibration checked on the old wench.

But using the new wrench doesn't really tell you anything, not if you just put it on the fasteners and see if it clicks.

Of course you can do a full crack-in check but why?

And if anything you're risking damage to the bolts and gaskets. What if it was over-torqued the first retorque? It's been the way for a while now, the threads may have stretched some and the gaskets compressed even more than intended. Retorquing now to a slightly lower clamp load helps how?

that's what my gut was telling me too.
"If it ain't broke...

 

[Vagrant]

I can't see a good reason to disturb them again.

If you're really worried have the calibration checked on the old wench.

But using the new wrench doesn't really tell you anything, not if you just put it on the fasteners and see if it clicks.

Of course you can do a full crack-in check but why?

And if anything you're risking damage to the bolts and gaskets. What if it was over-torqued the first retorque? It's been the way for a while now, the threads may have stretched some and the gaskets compressed even more than intended. Retorquing now to a slightly lower clamp load helps how?

I just checked them with a new wrench and nothing moved. Originally at the 600 mile mark i set valves at 6-8. now at 8500 they all were 3 loose. just a warning to others that a 4000 mile inspection might be smart for a while. I replaced the plug caps and plugs with the better style mentioned elsewhere.

 

[mechanicsavant]

"Usually" after a few hundred to 1k mi the head,cyl.,&fasteners have heat cycled sufficiently so the initial re-torque is all that is required. If things move after that it's other issues. As for "thread stretch" I dought it,worse case might be bolt stretch .But as guzzi uses studs&nuts vs bolts unless some moose (no intended slight to our moose pals) grossly overtightened the fasteners. Many newer engine torque using a rotation spec. is 20lb/ft then 90 deg. That is a bolt stretch method ,&bolts are not to be reused! Studs & nuts w/a numeric setting are more stable . Especially in air cooled engine w/lots of heat cycles. Also that's why most race motors use stud&but system.