• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

2nd battery in parallel

It will give you double the available current

Physics and Ohm’s Law says unequivocally you are absolutely wrong.

I just showed this above.

It will not give you double the available current.

The amperage will remain the same as it was with just 1 battery, regardless if you string 100 batteries together in parallel.

Only the Amp-hr will be additive.
 
Last edited:
Another issue with two lead acid batteries in parallel is that failure of a cell in one battery will cause the other battery to discharge into the failed battery. Depending upon the capacity and state of charge of the two batteries when the failure occurs, the failed cell may catastrophically fail with acid and debris making a mess of the bike (or the battery enclosure in the case of a UPS/emergency lighting system failure that I helped repair). The only safe way to connect batteries in parallel is to have overcurrent protection (fusing) between the batteries.

I have used lithium jumper packs to successfully start V8 SUV's, motorcycles, other vehicles. Some brands are good, others have insufficient capacity. I carry one if I have any concerns about the condition of the battery in the vehicle I am driving/riding.
 
Physics and Ohm’s Law says unequivocally you are absolutely wrong.

I just showed this above.

It will not give you double the available current.

The amperage will remain the same as it was with just 1 battery, regardless if you string 100 batteries together in parallel.

Only the Amp-hr will be additive.
It's much more subtle than this.

The current will be determined by the load and the internal resistance of the battery. It's this internal resistance that leads to the battery voltage dropping under load and is what you are testing when you put a battery on a load tester.
Adding a second (identical) battery effectivly halves the internal resistance the load sees. It won't double the current but will increase both the current and the voltage seen in operation. not easy to measure accurately without some careful work but pretty easy to simulate/calculate.
Now if you do this for a headlight bulb (50W or approx 4A) the current increase will be minimal, but if you do it for a starter motor (initial current draw maybe 100A+ before it starts to turn) then, like reducing any resistance in the circuit or ground connections, there will be a possibly significant increase in current (and hence force) which MIGHT (but only might) help with starting, it might also help stop the voltage dropping so far that the ECU on a modern vehicle will not shut down.
Physically bigger batteries, or two 6V in series, have more plate area and hence lower internal resistance leading to higher CCA ratings.

I suspect that all of the battery effects would be swamped by increasing wire sizes, minimising wire lengths and making sure all connections are as low a resistance as possible.
 
No. You are completely incorrect.

Putting two voltage sources in parallel does not increase amperage in the circuit.

Ohm's law ( V=IR ), tells us the only way to increase current is to increase voltage, or decrease resistance. [Reaaranged for amperage (current) it becomes I=V/R. More current is only available by increasing V or reducing R. - Period.]

Putting two voltage sources in parallel doesn't do either of those things.

The current (amps) will remain exactly the same. What changes is the capacity (amp hr).

The voltage will also remain 12V.
Cheers for this. Should have known this ...
 
The natural flow of electrons within the circuit will draw power from the good battery into the flat battery.

If you left them joined, they would eventually end up with even charge.

What you might be thinking is that if the flat battery is completely between the good battery and the circuit, that the dead battery will suck the charge in, but won't do it if it is off to one side.

Electricity doesn't work that way, it doesn't follow the path of least resistance and not down the other path, it spreads across the entire circuit.
 
Back
Top