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96 Cal 1100 carbed. Replace clutch instructions

S

Sanders63

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 20, 2012
Messages
72
Location
Arkansas
Greetings,
At one time I could have sworn I saw pictures of changing out a clutch, but I can't find them.
Also the need for an alignment tool when replacing?
Any tips or directions before I start this project or I should say projects may do my V65 also.
Thanks in Advance
:D
 
The method I use is to crab the frame. Remove any sensors that are attached to the engine, I've mostly worked on FI bikes but I think the carb bikes have a pickup for the ignition. With the front end secured, jack up the rear of the bike, remove the mufflers, crossover, rear wheel and swing arm. Place supports under the rear frame (the higher you can get it, the better) Remove tank, battery, starter, airbox, and disconnect the carbs from the cables, or remove them. Loosen but don't remove the the front engine mount (the through bolt) remove the bolts that hold the engine guards in place through the lower frame. Remove the clutch cable from the clutch arm at the back of the transmission. I use a scissors jack under the sump for this, remove the bolts at the back that hold the sub frame, then lower the transmission/engine combination. Remove the fasteners for teh gearbox/transmission and slide it off. Remove the central part of the pressure plate. Affix either the guzzi tool, or the one available from MG cycle to remove pressure from the clutch plates. Remove the bolts holding the flywheel and the flywheel. Then slide out the clutch plates and center plate. Do note the arrow on the flywheel and the dimple in one of the teeth on the pressure plate. These must be aligned on assembly. Remove the tool, pressure plate and springs. Clean out the clutch dust. If you don't want to test the spring strength install new springs. I do this by placing a dab of clear RTV on the end of the spring and setting them into the flywheel. Align the pressure plate and use the tool to compress the plate. Assembly is pretty much straight forward from here. I do torque the ring gear bolts to 25 lb-ft on assembly. Also you center the swing arm by having an equal amount of swing arm pin exposed on each side. I use a vernier caliper for the measurement and try to get within 0.5 mm of equal. Also it is easier to manage the swing arm with the bevel box removed so have new o-rings here.

Now, there isn't much point of having an old transmission input hub gear on new plates. So I use the factory holding tool and a modified tool with an impact wrench to remove the gland nut. Be sure to release the locking tab on the gland nut before you try to remove it. You will need new o-rings and front gearbox/transmission seal for this task. It is also a good time to install new clutch push rod seals.

I know this is long winded and I may have left something out so if you need to check back.

I forgot to mention, you are just about at the rear main seal. If you want to replace it, you are only a few bolts from removing the flywheel and having at that sea. I do use the factory tool to install this seal. I don't recall if the 96 is in the year range when Guzzi had the two bottom rear main carrier bolts holes go through, but it would be a good time to check, clean out the threads, and re-install the bolts with loctite 242 to seal the threads in case it is.
 
Thanks John,
I found the old post of Roper Crabbing the Frame, that along with your instructions looks like something I'm going to tackle.
I will definitely have more questions.
I will definitely replace the rear main seal & input & output seals on trans.
If you think of anything else let me know.
I heard you need to replace the fly wheel bolts?
What other things besides the O-rings & hub should you replace?
Thanks :)
 
The only one time use flywheel bolts I know of are used on BMWs. They have a narrow section that stretches and once torqued you shouldn't use them again. I've re-used Guzzi flywheel bolts with no problem. Again it depends on how involved you want to get. The 96 uses plastic cage input and output bearings. If you replace those with metal cage bearings, then you are looking at more gaskets and the shift return spring. Mostly it depends on how involved you want to get. Going into the gearbox isn't rocket science, but also not for the faint of heart.
 
Hi

I do seem to remember reading somewhere in one of the manuals that the flywheel bolts should be replaced. I can't remember if this was for the 1000 or the 1100 motor.

I don't think its that critical but the cost is pretty small so I'm going to do that on my 1100. I don't think when I rebuilt the 1000 I bothered and so far its been fine

John
 
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