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adjusting valves

Bucky, they shouldn't torqued very hard, as they are just keeping the cover on and the oil pressure inside is light. I've been good with "hand tight." I know in some areas the factory torque specs are incorrect, but I can't recall if this is one.

Joe
 
As far as I can tell from the manual 8Nm is recommended.

But I would not go there - finger tight is better and if they weep a bit knuckle tight will do the job.

The other trick is to put the long end of an Allen key into the bolt head and use the short end as your lever - you will never over tighten a bolt this way.
 
I've never had any trouble just using one finger pressure on the end of an allen key, i've no wish to helicoil a stripped thread.
 
londonrob said:
I've never had any trouble just using one finger pressure on the end of an allen key, i've no wish to helicoil a stripped thread.
Click to expand...

Same here, but I use finger pressure using a T-Handle.
 
mojohand said:
Just curious--do you see 8Nm as too tight or too loose?
Click to expand...
Neither (sort off), I just have an inbuilt mistrust of tourque wrenches - comes from a bad experience involving a mate's Honda 750 four engine, a head bolt, a lever arm tourque wrench and a teenage Agricultural College student Mike.C complete with I can do it attitude.

After that humiliating and expensive experience I never use one on any bolt that is not mission critical (cost me many weekends laying pavers for a local company to raise the money to pay the local bike shop to repair the damage), and even on mission critical ones I prefer the "suck it and see" method of bolt tightening. The valve cover bolts IMHO are definitely not mission critical and in actual fact with a bit of "feel" you can tighten them so they don't leak and at the same time have more of a chance of saving the gasket from being a one use only as I am pretty sure that tightening them with a TW will compress them more than is absolutely necessary to seal the runny stuff in.

Just my opinion of course, and I will freely admit that you do need to have a level of "feel" that only comes from experience - but I learnt from "suck it and see" experience so no reason why others can't, and if you blindly follow a TW you will never get "the feel" and I can assure you one day you will break a bolt off.
 
I've gone through many, many valve adjustments on my 155,000 mile T3, and never stripped out a valve cover bolt. Have replaced a few bolts where I was not very careful to get the allen key all the way in & so partially rounded off the hole in the head of the bolt, but never so badly as to need anything other than the allen key to get it out. Never used a torque wrench, use a socket allen key to get them out/loose, a T handle to tighten back up, never twist very hard, just go back over them a few times to be sure gasket is fullly compressed. Generally reuse gaskets as well many times, never replace unless they tear. This bike has helicoils all over the place from my wanton & highly non-expert ways-but there is just no reason to tighten these particular bolts very hard. On these bolts, don't need no stinkin' torque wrench.
 
For higher torque settings, a torque wrench is indispensible, but for very small values a wrench can cause havoc because using a wrench you can't "feel" if the thread is unhappy and likely to strip. For M6 screws the advice to rely on the small leverage achievable with the short end of an Allen key is good IMHO.
 
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