Anyone replaced the airbox with a pod filter? I'm going to dive in and do it this winter, and am interested in the experience of anyone who's gone before me. Thanks!
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If you can do this and advise others on how to succeed you will be providing a great service! It is a huge PITA to change the OEM filter with the MG airbox design. My concern would be twofold: (1) will the filter be able to stay dry enough to run in the rain? and (2) whta effects will this have on the already lean OEM tune?
Great job on doing away with the airbox. How does it run? That would be the big question?OK - finally got around to finishing this project. Here we go.
As many of us know, getting to the air filter in the California 1400 is very difficult and frustrating. I discovered this when fitting a replacement K&N air filter as part of installing Todd Egan’s fueling kit. Told myself at the time (two years ago) that I would someday replace the airbox with a pod filter, as was done with other Guzzis in my past.
Theoretically, a pod filter could be attached directly to the throttle body. That could work, but then you would have to remove the tank to be able to remove the filter for maintenance, or to replace it. Also, there just ain’t much room for the body of the filter in there between the wiring harness verticals, as you’ll see in the pictures.
I chose to use the stock design as guidance. The stock Cali1400 has a rubber tube clamped to the throttle body on one end, and the airbox on the other. So my approach was to use an aluminum tube in place of the stock rubber tube, and attach it to the throttle body using a rubber coupler/reducer, and clamp a UNI filter onto the other end.
Here’s how I went about it….
REMOVE THE AIRBOX
Here’s the airbox out of the bike (ignore the UNI next to it, as it is not the one I used)….
- Remove the fuel tank. Don’t forget to release the pressure in the line before attempting to disconnect the fuel line.
- Remove the right side cover.
- Remove the battery.
- Remove the blowby hose from the airbox at the connection on the top left front of the airbox. And while you’re at it, go underneath the bike and yank on the clear blowby collector hose to remove it from the bottom of the airbox. Easier now than later.
- Disconnect the airbox from the bracket - bolts on each side up top.
- Remove the wiring harness from the bracket thingy - two screws.
- Remove the bracket thingy - it will otherwise be in the way.
- Remove the bolts that secure the bottom of the airbox to the battery box just below the frame rails on each side. This was a surprise to me as it is not evident in the workshop manual (pages 168 and 169).
- Disconnect the tube connecting the throttle body to the airbox - there are clamps on each end. Remove the tube, making removal of the airbox much easier.
- OK - now wiggle and cajole that damn thing out of there. Throw it across the garage/shop - and swear at it if you like, as did I.
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...and the and the void created by its removal…
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...and the throttle body exposed…
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ORDER PARTS
Your new intake system will need a rubber coupler/reducer that attaches to the throttle body, a tube to go from the coupler/reducer to a filter, a filter, and some clamps.
An angled tube and a straight filter is an option I did not explore, but would have if the clearance from the highest part of the filter to bottom of the front of the seat was any tighter. You may want to consider it.
- The coupler/reducer is 3 inches inside diameter (ID) on the throttle body end and 2 ¾ inches ID on the tube end. I used one from Spectre Performance that worked perfectly - part number 87831. You’ll need a couple of 3 inch clamps (they aren’t included with 87831), so order those as well. Spectre has them.
- The tube should be 2 ¾ outside diameter (OD) and should be a minimum of 3 inches long. The longer the tube, the smaller the filter. I wanted to use a bigger filter, so I went with the minimum of 3 inches. I used an aluminum tube from HPS Silicone Hoses - part number AJ300-275. It has a bead roll with a small extension on each end, and I had to remove the extension one end for proper fitment to the coupler/reducer. You can get one without the bead roll, and you won’t have to remove the extension.
- The filter needs to have a flange ID of 2 ¾ - I chose the UNI UP-6275AST because of its length, relatively slim profile, and angle.
BLOWBY SYSTEM
Because the airbox goes away, a receptacle is needed for the airbox end of the hose coming off the front of the blowby collector box. Do what works for you - I used a small plastic bottle. Also, I chose to replace the hose and changed the routing of the hose from up from the front of the collector box and then outside the frame and in, to down and inside the frame - plenty of room. I used clear fuel line as replacement hose, as you can see in the pictures.
Here is the new hose as it comes off the blowby collector box...
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And then between the cylinders on the left side…
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And under the plenum and into the plastic bottle I used for a receptacle…
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INSTALL YOUR NEW INTAKE SYSTEM
Now you’re ready to build your new intake system.
- Install the coupler/reducer, clamping it to the throttle body flange.
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Install the tube, clamping it to the coupler/reducer.
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- Install the filter, clamping it to the tube.
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- Install the bracket and attach the wiring harness, as seen above the UNI in the previous 2 pictures.
- Install the battery.
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- Install the side covers and the fuel tank. Note that the UNI filter is accessible for removal via the clamp bolt between the bracket and wiring harness.
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Tight fit, but now you can access the filter much easier.
You’re finished! Unless your left center spark plug wire looks like mine did.
SPARK PLUG WIRE
The center spark plug wire on the left cylinder was pinched between the blowby collector box and the cylinder, badly damaging the protective sheath on the wire. To remediate the situation, I widened the gap between the blowby collector box and the cylinder.
MERRY XMAS!
- Remove the bolt that attaches the side of the collector box to the tab on the frame.
- Replace with a longer bolt through the frame tab and nut (I used a nutsert type of thingy) on the inside of the tab that creates sufficient gap between frame tab and collector box, thereby increasing the size of the gap between the collector box and the cylinder.
An alternative is to use the original bolt and some spacer washers and screw it into the threads on the collector box.- If the spark plug wire sheath is damaged, wrap it with some good tape, or otherwise protect it.
Jeff, make sure you send me the PC-V file, and we should do a static tune as well. Ping me direct email.Don't know yet how it runs - awaiting warmer, drier weather here on the wet side of the Cascades in Oregon. Guessing it will run the same as before or better, as the airbox lid had been opened up and a K&N filter installed as part of installation of Todd's fueling kit. I say maybe better because of adjustments to two valves on the left cylinder - a tight exhaust and a loose intake.
The sensor is in the plenum, to which the throttle body is attached. No sensors in the airbox.
Went out for a spirited ride on the Cali yesterday - oh boy oh boy oh boy! I swear it is running better, probably due to the left side valve adjustments. Little bit more intake honk, and much better very slow steady-throttle cruise (as in putting through a small town with 20 mph speed limit). And I said spirited, didn't I? When I passed a pickup towing a horse trailer that pulled out in front of me, reminded me of grabbing a bunch of throttle on my dear departed Centauro. Gonna download the map and send it to Todd and see what he says. But I am a very happy boy.Don't know yet how it runs - awaiting warmer, drier weather here on the wet side of the Cascades in Oregon. Guessing it will run the same as before or better, as the airbox lid had been opened up and a K&N filter installed as part of installation of Todd's fueling kit. I say maybe better because of adjustments to two valves on the left cylinder - a tight exhaust and a loose intake.
Been on the bike so much that I've neglected to pull the map and send to Todd. It is running so well that I would be V E R Y surprised if he had to make major adjustments. But, will update this thread after send the map to Todd and get the verdict. Thanks for the reminder.....
Finally, sent the map to Todd and he tweaked it, and then he performed a "static tune for low speed throttle". Suffice it to say that my Cali is now dialed in, thanks to Todd's support, after replacing the airbox with a pod filter.Been on the bike so much that I've neglected to pull the map and send to Todd. It is running so well that I would be V E R Y surprised if he had to make major adjustments. But, will update this thread after send the map to Todd and get the verdict. Thanks for the reminder.....