• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

airbox questin - what's the secret?

SP II

SP II

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 26, 2009
Messages
33
Location
Charlotte, N.C.
After having the carbs off my Mille GT, I'm having a devil of a time getting the inlet pieces (tubes) attached to the airbox.
Carbs are mounted, attach inlet tube to carb, try to push tube into airbox and it either wont push into the airbox, or it goes in too far.

Is there a preferred method of doing this? Should I attach the tubes to the airbox first, then to the carbs? Vaseline?

Thanks for any tips.

Al in NC
 
I went though that routine a couple of months ago on my 87 SPII. Trying to remember how I acomplished i, as I remember I had the same problem. Try dismounting the carbs and manifolds, get them inserted into the tubes, the tubes mounted into the box, then bolt the manifold to the cylinder. There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
JD
 
No need to unbolt manifolds.

Make sure elbow is firm in airbox. If not then warm the end and stretch it a bit with a jar.

Have all 4 hose clamps loose and the carby sitting in the inlet manifold. Warm the carby end of the elbow with a hairdryer or similar.Have the carby and elbow tilted so they are like bridge that opens up in the middle. Ease then down together and the elbow over the carby.
 
Morizzi said:
No need to unbolt manifolds.

Make sure elbow is firm in airbox. If not then warm the end and stretch it a bit with a jar.

Have all 4 hose clamps loose and the carby sitting in the inlet manifold. Warm the carby end of the elbow with a hairdryer or similar.Have the carby and elbow tilted so they are like bridge that opens up in the middle. Ease then down together and the elbow over the carby.
Click to expand...

That sounds a whole lot easier than what I suggested. As \I said, more than one way to skin a cat.....
 
Many thanks to Jay and to Morizzi for the tips.

Exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

Back to the battle, but better armed this time.

Al
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top