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Anyone have a charcoal canister they want to sell?

cgalardi

cgalardi

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Nov 16, 2008
Messages
104
In messing around with my Stelvio I broke one of the nipples off the charcoal canister. I have the hose temporarily reattached but if anyone has a charcoal canister they want to sell let me know.

Thanks,

Chris in Omaha
 
Why not Just get rid of it Chris... Does nothing to improve the bike and I as others have found better idling and in the case of a Norge, reclaimed extra space under the seat. Easy to do.
 
I took it off, as well as the grey/black tipover valve. The bike ran terribly. I don't know why. I put the stuff back on and it runs much better. Again I don't know why. i don't want to mess with it any longer and just want to get it back to how it was with the canister in place. I am tired of messing with it and just want to ride it! My LeMans is getting all the exercise lately :)

So if anyone has a canister....... :)
 
cgalardi said:
I took it off, as well as the grey/black tipover valve. The bike ran terribly. I don't know why. I put the stuff back on and it runs much better. Again I don't know why. i don't want to mess with it any longer and just want to get it back to how it was with the canister in place. I am tired of messing with it and just want to ride it! My LeMans is getting all the exercise lately :)

So if anyone has a canister....... :)
Click to expand...

I have 3 available, one for a Norge , one for V7C and one for a Cal Vin if any of the part numbers match you can have it for postage. What part number is it ?

You sure you didn't route the bypass hoses incorrectly ?
 
Hi Dan,

Thank you for the offer. I cannot find the part # as I can't seem to locate the Stelvio parts manual. Visually it looks identical to one I have seen on my friend's Breva 1100. One 1/4" fuel line on one side, one 1/4" and one 3/16" fuel line out of the other side. Looking at pictures of the canister on a Norge it looks exactly the same visually.

Oh, btw, a fella from J-ville emailed me the other day on Facebook. he had just bought a new Breva and wanted to know about any Guzzi clubs in FL (musta thought I still lived there). Is it okay if I give him your email contact info?

Thanks Dan,

Chris
 
I've had a problem since I removed my charcoal can. I had the can disconnected and it ran great; I removed it and now it runs crappy. I figure it can't be the can; it must be something I did when I removed it. I tried to make the vent better, so I'm going to undue what I did there. I also re-sync'd the carbs. I don't understand how what I did could possibly have affected the sync. But something went wrong somewhere.

Neeedless to say I'd be interested to know how things turn out for you....
 
When you eliminated the can, did you plug the holes/hoses going to the throttle bodies? Otherwise you'll introduce an air leak. I think it's preferable to plug each hole rather than run a crossover hose between the two TB's as technically they bleed air from each other that way.
 
John in PA said:
When you eliminated the can, did you plug the holes/hoses going to the throttle bodies? Otherwise you'll introduce an air leak. I think it's preferable to plug each hole rather than run a crossover hose between the two TB's as technically they bleed air from each other that way.
Click to expand...

I was told the exact same thing from the Piaggio tech at the national rally. When I had him upgrade my map he noticed I had removed the canister. I ask which way was preferred, connected or plugged (mine is plugged). He said plugged is the way to go for the reason you stated.
 
Based on the diagram above (thanks Pete Roper), I had done the following:

Removed Canister #4
Removed Valve #7 and replaced it with a brass coupler
Connected #6 fuel line on each side of the canister with a brass coupler
Plugged #8 fuel line where it was connected to the canister
Plugged #8 fuel line where it connects to each throttle body.
Ran a new line from one throttle body straight across to the other.
I also removed the red plastic assembly with the spring/metal ball built into the fuel cap.

The bike started running rather poorly anywhere from 2000-4000 rpm. It sounded like it was missing terribly. Sputtering, etc. Above that rpm it seems fine.

I hooked everything back up, including the canister #4 and the valve #7. Initially, i.e. when cold it seemed to start running fine again. But it seems as it warmed up it started running poorly once again.

Not sure what is going on with it. It does have the remapped ECU but I did not notice any of these issues after I had initially installed the remapped ECU and taken it on a good long test ride.

Anyway I want to get all the vapor recovery stuff hooked back up and get back to a base state and go from there with my troubleshooting.
 

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I would try removing the plug on #8 feul line where it was connected to the canister. You don't need a plug there; since that is the line that goes to the tb's, and you have it disconnected on the other end. Also, if you accidentally put the plug on the other line connected to the canister, that would explain the problem, I think.

The guys on this list know better than me, but I also wouldn't use the canister's vent line. Replace #7 with a coupler, and run the line from there to the ground, instead of from there to the front of the bike and down the vent line that was attached to the canister.

(Or, even better, attach a long line to #10, and run it straight to the ground.)
 
Why not just remove canister ,crossover from TBs and line to canister, drain line from canister, reroute fueltank vent to drain cluster at back of engine and block ports on TB manifolds. I left check valve in place as it works properly and have had no issues.
FBC
 
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