• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Atomiser Bush Removal

Tonerjockey

Tonerjockey

High Miler
GT Contributor
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
788
Location
San Jose
Hey Yo

Alright. How does one remove the atomiser bush from a Dellorto PHF carb without destroying same? I was considering heating the body a bit, screwing the atomiser back in a skosh, and tapping the bottom end with a drift pin... probably the best way to destroy everything.

How is it really done?

AtomiserBush.jpg


Alex
 
It isn't. It's not supposed to need replacement. I've done it, with heat from memory, but I can't remember why or how I got it back in, (Are they even availabale as a separate part????).

I'm several thousand Km's from an *accessible* carb. ask me in a week...... :cheer:

Pete
 
Oooops those are the Atomizers!!!! NOT THE Atomoizer Bushes.... Sheesh.

I can take the thread pitch etc off these... gotta be carefull on the bush extraction.

Alex "stumbing around as usual"
 
Of course they don't wear out, but can get gummed up if left sitting with gas for a long time, or purposefully changed to adjust the jetting-say if you are taking a carb meant for one bike & moving to another, I believe what you are doing here. Lots of different sized atomizers easily available from lots of folk, MG Cycle & Herdan Inc to name a couple. I've had the atomizers in & out of my 32 & 40 PHF's any number of times, & never had any particular problems doing so. You screw out the main jet to get access to the atomizer hiding underneath, stick in a screwdriver that is not so wide as to scrape against the walls of the tube it resides in, & with a blade tip that matches the slot in the top of the atomizer as much as possible, & turn counterclockwise. Screw it out, screw the new one back in, replace the main jet, away you go. I remember them being a little bit stuck at times, but not much. You could pull the carb off the bike if not already & use an impact screwdriver, but carefully, not so hard, or bad things can happen. My apologies if this is all too obvious & you've already been there/done that-but might be useful for others.

One other thought-you sure you need/want to change it? If this is the 32PHF on T3 project you have been working on, & AB265 already in there-probably no need to change. I know you can't tell what it is without pulling it out, but if it came off a Ducati from back in the day like mine did, probably 265. Just saying, if you have to destroy it to save it.....
 
Here's what I've done to date and hopefully where I'm headed.

Cut down a 8mm rod to 7mm and threaded it 7mm fine.

Removed atomizer and screwed tool into bushing.
Bushingsandtool.jpg


Heated the carb body and tapped on the tool and the bushing came out.

Chased the bushing thread with tap.

OK they're out.
BushOut.jpg


Now to further mess up the carbs...

Gunna bore these a bit ... a little more complicated than I first imagined. But if it was easy...I'd be done by now.

aLEX
 
DOH!!!-now I get it, it was the atomiser bushing that was stuck, not the atomiser itself. My bad. Late hours combined with incorrect picture....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top