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Bevel Box: replacing the drive flange (splined thingy)

KnowFear

KnowFear

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
103
If I need to replace the bevel box's drive flange (thingy with splines)..... does this involve re-shimming the gears during reassembly? In other words, can a reasonably competent person (me) do this job, or do I need to send it out to an expert? I read Pete Roper's bevel box rebuilding article, and I'm a little intimidated.
 
If you remove the cover and extract the crownwheel and its carrier, (Which is the splined bit.) you can unbolt the crownwheel and then measure the depth of the part of the carrier that the crownwheel bolts to. If the old one and the new one are the same or very close, (as in a few thou and they do tend to be machined pretty accurately.) then you can simply, in theory, swap them out.

DO use new bolts for the crownwheel, DO use either locking plates or schnoore washers and red loctite on the bolts and torque them correctly. Note that if you use Schnoore washers you should add a couple of extra Ft/Lbs of torque to compensate for the crush and friction of the washers.

Clean the crownwheel shim carefully and install with new gaskets and torque it down correctly then check the backlash. If it feels the same as it did bfore replacement you are basically right to go. If it either binds or feels really 'Knocky', (Too much backlash.) then it'll need further looking into. when checking the backlash the pinion carrier must be bolted up tight to the box and the crownwheel carrier pulled as far oot of the box as possible.

New seals are obviously a must and the inner race of the outer needle roller bearing needs to be removed from the old carrier and installed on the new one.

Pete
 
The splines are worn to the point that there is quite a bit of play. I'm not sure what is "acceptable" wear, but the amount of play between the drive flange and the cush drive plate is equal to about 2 or 3mm when measured at the outside diameter of the cush drive plate. Is that considered OK, bad, or very bad?

This bike is new to me, and it appears that the PO didn't pay much attention to the wheel splines.
 
I'm lost....... can you post a picture of what you are speaking about.
 
gstallons said:
I'm lost....... can you post a picture of what you are speaking about.
Click to expand...

I'm talking about the gear lash. If the cush drive plate is inserted into the drive flange, and then rotated forward and backward while the drive flange is held still, there is some movement due to the wear on the splines.

My question is: how much wear is acceptable? At it's OD, the cush drive plate moves @ 2mm while the drive flange is stationary.
 
Can we get a picture of the spline condition? So long as there is enough to transfer the load applied, I'd run it. If they look like you could cut yourself on them, replace. Riding the bike you won't notice the free play.
 
Here are the splines in question:
 

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If it were my bike, I'd run it. The splines are worn, but in my opinion still serviceable. Just use plenty of good grease on the splines to prevent any further wear. Be sure whenever you get a tire change, the splines get an additional coating of grease.
 
Hi John - thanks for the feedback. I'm still learning the ropes with shaft drive. Chris
 
I think I would not $pend a lot of $$$ to correct this. I would go back with a good anti-sieze lube or a spray open gear lube...
 
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