Does anyone know if there is anything special that needs to be done to bleed the ABS module while bleeding the brakes? Does the dealer put the ABS in a special mode through the PADS system when bleeding the brakes?
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By spongy I mean the initial bite of the front brake is soft. It still stops okay but needs more lever pressure. Pads are a good thickness and I have "HH" rated pads on it. Admittedly, I am an aggressive decelerator and I am very sensitize to changes in brakes. I run "HH" pads on all my bikes and bleed the brakes every winter.By spongy do you mean just not hard or completely dead and not resistance whatsoever. If there is still brake but just soft then you can try a couple of things.
1. Zip tie the brake lever all the way down to the grip and loosen the top on the reservoir. Leave it over night. This will force any remaining air to the top and out the reservoir.
2. Other thing you can do is take the bike out and actuate the abs. Please be careful when u do this. Straight line only. Don't want you ditching the bike. This will move the fluid out of the abs and then change the fluid again.
If neither of these work and you are sure you bled all the air out then it will be a trip to the dealer. I have never actuated the abs when changing fluid on my abs bikes and have never had an issue. I think you just have some air trapped. Give it a try and see what happens.
How can air escape with the lever zip tied? The bleed holes in the master cylinder piston will be covered, hence the build up of brake pressure. Or do you mean after the zip tie is released? I have heard more people recommend this trick, I suppose it is to de-foam the brake fluid and create one big bubble that is easier to release? Just trying to get some insight here...By spongy do you mean just not hard or completely dead and not resistance whatsoever. If there is still brake but just soft then you can try a couple of things.
1. Zip tie the brake lever all the way down to the grip and loosen the top on the reservoir. Leave it over night. This will force any remaining air to the top and out the reservoir.
2. Other thing you can do is take the bike out and actuate the abs. Please be careful when u do this. Straight line only. Don't want you ditching the bike. This will move the fluid out of the abs and then change the fluid again.
If neither of these work and you are sure you bled all the air out then it will be a trip to the dealer. I have never actuated the abs when changing fluid on my abs bikes and have never had an issue. I think you just have some air trapped. Give it a try and see what happens.
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I have 22K miles on my 2014 Cali Custom. As we all know brake fluid is hygroscopic and needs to be replaced from time to time. I have a spongy front brake lever and I can't seem to get it back to normal by doing the standard bleed procedure. According to the service manual there is a way to purge air/old fluid from the ABS module through the diagnostics software (PADS?). Does anyone know if this procedure (service manual screenshot) can be done without taking the bike to the dealer?
This thread is a bit old but still no solution that I'm aware of.I did not see any reply to this and asking myself the same question:
How to get the ABS module into service mode without the dealer software? Can it be done with guzzydiag? Another software?
Sounds like a little air. Did u try tie wrapping the lever overnight. That will get ride of any minute air and firm up the lever.
I never had a bike with ABS and now I am very interested in deleting the ABS systemfrom the V7. Does anyone know if this can be done without having the ABS light come on the guage?