• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Bosch Rotor Bolt.... RH or LH thread

Tobit

Just got it firing!
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
4
Location
Memphis, Tennessee USA
Quick question about my LeMans IV. Is the bolt in the alternator rotor a regular right hand thread or left hand? I need to get under the timing cover and don't recall if this is a "backwards" thread, it's been many years since I've had it off.

Thanks,

Tobit
 
Normal RH thread.

You will probably need the removal tool to shock the rotor off the taper. A small length of rod used to be provided in the OEM tool kit to be placed under the fitted bolt but some have had issues if the rod bends after the 'tap.'

I've never had a problem but I obviously hold my tongue just right. :p
 
A small length of rod used to be provided in the OEM tool kit to be placed under the fitted bolt but some have had issues if the rod bends after the 'tap.'

I've never had a problem but I obviously hold my tongue just right.

I've had a few of them - and they can be a real bugger. Be sure to use a piece of properly hardened rod - if it bends inside the crank it can cause a lot of teeth gnashing, manly crying etc. If in doubt buy the tool. it is not a bad idea to begin by using a pair of ball peens on either side of the rotor and give them some short sharp taps to break the taper. Put some tension on the bolt and do the shock thing again. Stripping the thread is pretty catastrophic so proceed carefully.

Pete Roper had the brilliant idea of making an adapter for a grease gun and pumping grease into the rotor cavity until it pops off. I have done it and it is now my preferred method. Thank you Pete!

I lap the taper with some fine valve grinding paste when I reinstall - this is probably not required and I have never seen one come loose but it is just good practice.
 
I have a bit of hardened rod I've used to pop off the rotor before, just didn't remember if it was RH or LH. Now I know which way to try and turn the bolt. Thanks.

Next question, Since the engine is in the place and not on the bench where I can get easily hold the flywheel, what's the best way to hold it? In gear with the brake on?

Tobit.
 
You can do that, or just put a big screwdriver in the inspection hole in the bell housing to hold the flywheel.
 
Ok. Once I have the bolt out, I might give Roper's grease gun a try. Sounds much less risky than the hardened bit method which I've used.

Tobit
 
Back
Top