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brake light issue

Big Green Cadillac

Big Green Cadillac

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
1
Brake light not coming on either with front or rear activation. Found bad microswitch in front and ordered new one. Rear-took off master cylinder, removed boot, all seemed clean and new but not coming on. Put it all back together and now it is steady on. Do these switches fail? Or can I try something before I just order a new one (about $38- online) Thanks.
 
Switches do fail. I can't remember if the rear is a pressure switch or not. If it is a pressure switch and stays on, it must be replaced. If it is a mechanical switch, you may be able to make some adjustment.
 
Switches are easy to test with a meter.
It sounds like something got amiss when you worked on it as originally you said the brake light was not coming on at all. But it should be a pressure switch and you should be able to see the contact close then open again with the meter when you apply and release the brakes.
 
Not sure which bike, on my LM 1000 and 1100 sport both the rear M/Cs have a pressure switch on the top.

Excuse me insulting your intelligence but you have checked all the fuses after installation of the front switch and proved that the front circuit is working correctly? After the switches there is a lot of common wiring and I'd want to prove that its all in order with the new front brake switch first.

Check the back brake isn't binding on in any way (that would be unusual but not impossible)

If all is well check the switch. Without the brake operating you will have volts on one terminal none on the other (with the other meter lead on the frame, engine or battery negative). When the switch operates the side with no volts will then start to read voltage as well. The switch is on the positive side of the circuit with all the voltage being dropped through the bulb.

Another way is to select Ohms on the meter, whip off the wires, and then with the leads on the switch terminals, try the brake. If the switch is working then you will get a very low resistance when its on and a high when its off. If its faulty per description then when you release the resistance will still be very low and you need a new one.

Normally these switches are pretty reliable and I'm just a bit suspicious that both back and front both went faulty at the same time, not impossible of course just saying

John
 
My V11 Lemans 2002 had similar problem. Switch was bad but there was another problem. The copper contact clip in the rear brake housing had loosened so that putting in a new, working, bulb sometimes fixed the problem and sometimes still did not work. I removed the bulb and the housing and carefully bent the clip until it maintained good contact with the bulb. It has worked since then.
 
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