• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Breather tube.

pizza for you

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jun 8, 2015
Messages
176
Location
Ohio
My original 1975 t did not have an oil filter, so when I decided to rebuild the engine I purchased a block that did have an oil filter. The original breather tube did not have the check valve but the block with the oil filter did, see pictures below. My question is, do I use the tube without the check valve or should I use the tube that has it ?
100 0001
Second question is my T has a metal tube that is on the push rod for the clutch. Should I reuse it along with the cup shaped seals or should I not use the tube ?
Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • 100_0002.JPG
    100_0002.JPG
    115.7 KB · Views: 6
  • 100_0003.JPG
    100_0003.JPG
    110.4 KB · Views: 6
Yes and yes but do get new rubber pieces. To run an oil filter on a T block I believe you only need to drop the existing manifold and use a T-3 or later oil pan. By just using the later pan, you can keep frame and engine number matching.
 
If you are using the original breather box with internal disk-type valve, then you don't want to use the ball-type valve as well. One or the other - not both. If the disk inside the breather box is intact, then retain that and remove the ball-type valve. That ball-type valve isn't part of the tube you show, it slips into it and is removable.

Remove the hard plastic sleeve "seal" before inserting the cones. I've still had leaks with the cones and now use a stack of six o-rings, an idea developed by Dave Richardson. I'll send a set of six o-rings to anyone that wants them, for FREE.
 
Yes and yes but do get new rubber pieces. To run an oil filter on a T block I believe you only need to drop the existing manifold and use a T-3 or later oil pan. By just using the later pan, you can keep frame and engine number matching.
Same as the Eldorado, the early 850-T engine cases weren't drilled with the necessary oil passages for a filter pan, they need to drilled and a filter front main bearing fitted.
thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_oil_filter_addition_-_adapting_an_existing_block_to_use_an_internal_filter.html
 
I take it the disk you are referencing is outlined in yellow. I would be interested in the o rings but I would gladly pay for them.
 

Attachments

  • breather box.png
    breather box.png
    748.5 KB · Views: 5
Yes, that is the disk I am referring to. The o-rings cost me 8 cents each and first class postage is only 60 cents. PM me with your address and I'll send you some.
 
Back
Top