• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Breva 1100 Dash Issues

lordabhi

Just got it firing!
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
22
Just got a new 07 Breva 1100 and it has 300 miles on her so far. Today morning the LCD part of the dash stopped working. The guages work fine. Funny thing is - the LCD works when the rpm is low - but when the rpm is around 3000 it goes blank but gomes back when i fire the engine again. Any one seen this before ? What am I looking at. I will have the dealer look at it, but any pointers from any one?
 
I don't know if this happens on the Breva but on my Stelvio the spark plug boot developed a tear in the insulation (from my previous ham-fistedness) and this would then arc against the valve cover. When this happened the dash would either blank out or read a lot of gibberish.

Might be worthwhile to check your plug wires.
 
Thanks for the input guys. That was helpful.

Got a new dash installed by local MG dealer under warranty and the service was excellent. Had the part shipped in 48 hrs.

Quick question - which gear oil should i use in the gear box and CARC - and how much of it will I need? I picked up a 75W-140 full synthetic Super - Tech gear oil form Wal-Mart. Will that work?
 
OK, I got another issue. One of my keys is not being recognised by the CAN BUS computer. When I try to use it - it first promts me to enter code. When I do - it shows service and haz sign on the dash and does not let me start the engine. Can any one walk me through the process of making the computer recognize the key?
 
lordabhi said:
Thanks for the input guys. That was helpful.

Got a new dash installed by local MG dealer under warranty and the service was excellent. Had the part shipped in 48 hrs.

Quick question - which gear oil should i use in the gear box and CARC - and how much of it will I need? I picked up a 75W-140 full synthetic Super - Tech gear oil form Wal-Mart. Will that work?

Download the manuals from this site in the downloads section. The manuals should have the key recognition instructions. It is possible the key has a faulty chip, but try programming it first. If it won't it is another warranty claim. Service codes are listed in the CARC section. Gearbox and Carc use 80W90 or 85W90. Fully synthetic (and I'd use a name brand not Wal Mart low end oil as the components are very expensive) is recommended. Either weight is fine for both applications. The oil (viscosity) you purchased is the correct oil for a small block rear drive.
 
There are many different opinions on oil – like whisky and wine.

I put the same fully synthetic 75w90 in both Gearbox and CARC on my Breva1100 about 2000miles ago and 1 litre was enough to fill both. It’s been running fine.

There are many threads on oil which are worth reading.

Art
 
OK, got the instructions to recognize a new key. I have another issue - what is the diagnostic key for 07 Breva 11.

Manual says 36421 and internet search got me an updated 38315 but none of them work for me. Is there a third one?
 
Perfect... thanks a bunch; 28315 works.

I made the computer recognize both the key and now when I insert them - it does not ask me for code or throws any error or service light. But turning the key the motor wont fire. All I here is a click from the starter.

Perhaps I have drained the battery by playing with the keys, although the dash still says 12.4 V. I have hooked up the trickle charge and will try to again after a while.
 
It fired up after recharging the battery. Next step to get some quality fluids and perform the 600 miles service. Thanks for the support form every one in this board.
 
I did the 600 miles service on my bike today.

The valve clearance was .25 for both inlet and exhaust for both left and right cylinders. I set it back to .15 and .10 and the engine is much quieter. I wonder if this is common to MG. Coming from Jap bikes I am not used to such a large deviation in a short time.

I replaced old UFI (7 sided) filter with new one and no leaks so far. Use Redline 10W 60 and Castrol 75W 90. The engine oil looked like almost new, no metal shavings. The gear box and CARC oil had fine metal particles as I had expected. It took me 3 hours . I feel good knowing it was done right.
 
lordabhi said:
I did the 600 miles service on my bike today.

The valve clearance was .25 for both inlet and exhaust for both left and right cylinders. I set it back to .15 and .10 and the engine is much quieter. I wonder if this is common to MG. Coming from Jap bikes I am not used to such a large deviation in a short time.

I had my 600 mile service done at dealer so don't know what adjustment if any was necessary at that stage but I did the next check at 4000 miles and none of the valve clearances needed doing. Such an easy job too having the lumps sticking out the side with no fairing in the way.

Art
 
thanks Art.

I will perhaps check again at around 2500 miles just to be sure.
 
Back
Top