Struggling to remove the last of 4 6mm allen bolts holding the yokes to the folks. The bolts have never been out and they corrode inside the alloy of the yoke. Tried wd40 and impact driver. Rounded the inside of the seized bolt. Tried to drill a 3mm pilot hole in the bolt with a titanium drill to enable a LH tapper to turn the bolt out but the drill can't penetrate the stainless steel bolt. What about applying a blowtorch to the head of the bolts. This will trash the gold paint of the yoke but will it free the seized bolt is used with an impact driver. Maybe I should remove the bottom yoke complete with stuck fork and take is to an engineer shop? Gotta detach the handle bars and headlight subframe undo the steering head nut and drop the yoke out of the sterring head. All I wanted to do is repaint the lower folks and oil change. Is Breva 1100 fork removal this hard?
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Breva 1100 fork removal
- Thread starter nel
- Start date
It is only hard if you make it. WD 40 is probably the worst penetrating oil there is. A home mix of 50/50 acetone and ATF works the best. Now that you have rounded off the bolt head, your best bet is to take the assembly to a machinist so he can use a carbide tip to remove the stainless bolt. Unfortunately that will require dropping everything out of the steering head. Also I never use an impact tool on Allen heads. That is just asking for trouble, you need to have a feel for what is going on. Quality 3/8 inch drive Allen sockets work best. When you get new bolts, coat with an anti seize compound on assembly.
One thing to try before dropping the entire front end. Use the 50/50 mix penetrating oil for several days. Take a center punch and punch in the sides of the Allen bolt head. Then hammer in a good Allen socket and use a breaker bar or ratchet so you can feel what is going on. You may get just enough purchase to get the bolt out.
One thing to try before dropping the entire front end. Use the 50/50 mix penetrating oil for several days. Take a center punch and punch in the sides of the Allen bolt head. Then hammer in a good Allen socket and use a breaker bar or ratchet so you can feel what is going on. You may get just enough purchase to get the bolt out.
There is a product called Sock it out (sockitout.com), they work. I use them at work a lot. Does the head of the bolt stick out far enough to grab it woth vice grips. Soak it with penetrating fluid and try that. You can make up John's mix which I have read works well or if you can find it I use Kroil.
Guys, nothing beats the home brew.
I bought this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/...rew-extractor-wrench-set?da=1&TC=RV-040213030 must be similar to Sockitout but not as good. It struggles to bite into the hard steel of the allen head. Trying to drill a deeper 2.5mm pilot hole on my 3rd titanium/cobalt coated drill.
Be careful with that style, I've seen them snap and then you are really screwed. This style is less prone to snap http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-screw-extractor-set/p-00952315000P Be sure to use penetrating oil and let it soak in for at least a day before you try an extractor.
The Sock it Out is not a screw extracter exactly. It is sized the fit into the head of the Allan bolt but slightly tapered and a bit larger. You tap it in, sometimes very large taps, and then turn it out like it is a hex head bolt. I have never broken one but of course there has been the bolt that is so rusted in it just makes the hex hole a bit larger. I'd say I have a very high percentage of success with them.
I have used every penetrant in that test except the home brew. Kroil wins by a landslide for penetrating into crevices, including smooth shafts that are stuck. I had seen that report before but the convience of walking into the supervisors office and walking out with a spray can of Kroil wins over making my own. At home I have over a gallon of Kroil my dad gave me in the small drip applicator cans and the gallon refill so the price is reasonable there also!
I have used every penetrant in that test except the home brew. Kroil wins by a landslide for penetrating into crevices, including smooth shafts that are stuck. I had seen that report before but the convience of walking into the supervisors office and walking out with a spray can of Kroil wins over making my own. At home I have over a gallon of Kroil my dad gave me in the small drip applicator cans and the gallon refill so the price is reasonable there also!
Tied to undo the big hex steering head bolt. Can move it half turn anti clockwise then it's stuck or half turn clockwise. I imagined you would just turn this top bolt anticlockwise all the way until it came out? page 5-21 maintenance manual says loosen top bolt,remove bottom screw fork fastening plate, remove handlebars. In the 3rd pic it shows the top bolt remove implying it screws out above. thought i'd take the steering head apart so I could remove bottom yoke and stuck fork. Harder than manual suggests.