• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Breva 750 UPDATE on braking issue

oceanluvr30

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Jul 18, 2012
Messages
97
Location
Stuart, FL USA
Ok guys, finally got the Breva 750 delivered yesterday. Checked it over real good and verdict was that it arrived with no damage and the sellers description was spot-on. Spent most of today taking short rides putting about 60 miles on her. First impression was she has enough power for my taste, looks better in person then in a photo and it will take a bit of time in the saddle to get the gear shifting smooth. Just a bit of history, I am a returning rider, after a lay-off of 30 years, and eased back into over the last year with a Piaggio 150 scooter. Found the clutch a bit on the heavy side, but i guess from reading other posts that is normal. All in all was very happy on how she ran. My only area of concern is upon braking, trying to apply both front and back simultaneously the stop is not smooth. I will try to explain as best as i can...basically it bucks or appears to be grabbing then not, then grabbing again, etc , not a lot but definitely noticeable ... and i think it is coming from the front. Almost as if i were pulsing the brake. Any suggestions or ideas on why this is happening?
 
Re: Breva 750 First Ride Impression And One Question

There may be a build up of pad material on the rotor. A scotchbrite pad might remove the buildup.

John
 
Re: Breva 750 First Ride Impression And One Question

Hey Oceanluvr30:

Try stopping with the front brake only as a test.

If you are feeling a pulsing from the front end there are a number of things to check. Here is one I would check: have someone really clever on tires take a look at your front tire and see if it is "cupped".

I had a pulsing problem from the front of my v11, and I thought it was the semi-floating disc buttons, or a warped disc, etc. and fooled around with the brakes for some time. Finally I went in for a new back tire one day and the technician pointed out my front tire was cupped. I couldn't see it so easily and still not sure what the cupping looks like. But I put a new front tire on and the problem was instantly gone - so I have no doubt he was right.

If you read around, you'll find info that for some reason Moto Guzzi recommended tire pressures lower than a lot of people think they should be. I think the v11 called for 32 psi in the front. I think it got a little low while loaded up with me and a pile of gear on a trip and it caused the tire to cup.

If you are a heavy person you might want to ask others for tire pressure advice.
 
Re: Breva 750 First Ride Impression And One Question

Saab_96 said:
Hey Oceanluvr30:

Try stopping with the front brake only as a test.

If you are feeling a pulsing from the front end there are a number of things to check. Here is one I would check: have someone really clever on tires take a look at your front tire and see if it is "cupped".

I had a pulsing problem from the front of my v11, and I thought it was the semi-floating disc buttons, or a warped disc, etc. and fooled around with the brakes for some time. Finally I went in for a new back tire one day and the technician pointed out my front tire was cupped. I couldn't see it so easily and still not sure what the cupping looks like. But I put a new front tire on and the problem was instantly gone - so I have no doubt he was right.

If you read around, you'll find info that for some reason Moto Guzzi recommended tire pressures lower than a lot of people think they should be. I think the v11 called for 32 psi in the front. I think it got a little low while loaded up with me and a pile of gear on a trip and it caused the tire to cup.

If you are a heavy person you might want to ask others for tire pressure advice.

Thanks for the tip, will definitely check out the front tire. I did check the discs, both front and back, cleaned them with scotch brite pad and not much difference. Will keep you posted. ;)
 
Re: Breva 750 First Ride Impression And One Question

Having put a couple of hundred miles on the bike the front brake is definitely the culprit with the pulsing. I cleaned the disc with a 3M pad, no residue and it looks real clean, the tire appears to be in good shape, lots of tread left and no signs of cupping as far as I can tell. Certainly when rolling the tire rolls smooth. Any other suggestions?
 
Re: Breva 750 First Ride Impression And One Question

oceanluvr30 said:
Having put a couple of hundred miles on the bike the front brake is definitely the culprit with the pulsing. I cleaned the disc with a 3M pad, no residue and it looks real clean, the tire appears to be in good shape, lots of tread left and no signs of cupping as far as I can tell. Certainly when rolling the tire rolls smooth. Any other suggestions?

The buttons may be sticking. I usually do hard braking on long downhill sections, but since you are in Florida, finding a hill may be difficult. ;) Try a sequence of very hard braking anyway. It may free up those buttons. As a last resort, use Grahams's technique of removing the rotor, supporting the area around a button with a socket (clip side), them hammering the other side of the button to increase the gap.
 
Had the same problem on my Bellagio, none of the above worked, never will if the disc is warped.
Replace disc problem solved.

Jack up your bike with front wheel off the ground, turn bars to lock, spin wheel and look.
You can use any soft metal (or ruler, screw driver etc) held horizontaly against fork and slide it in towards the outer perimeter of the disc while wheel is spinning. You will feel/hear the screech of metal on metal and you maybe able to see the distortion as the disc moves away/towards your metal tool.
 
ghezzi said:
Had the same problem on my Bellagio, none of the above worked, never will if the disc is warped.
Replace disc problem solved.

Jack up your bike with front wheel off the ground, turn bars to lock, spin wheel and look.
You can use any soft metal (or ruler, screw driver etc) held horizontaly against fork and slide it in towards the outer perimeter of the disc while wheel is spinning. You will feel/hear the screech of metal on metal and you maybe able to see the distortion as the disc moves away/towards your metal tool.

Your right none of the other suggestions worked. Cleaned the entire disc with automotive wheel cleaner with no noticeable change. Going to try your suggestion tomorrow. How hard is it to change a disc and is there any resource with instructions?
 
Ocean, check the disk first, as ghezzi outlined. No need to replace parts without a check.

There are other things in the caliper than lead to your problem, especially with a used bike. You might try inspecting the pads, and replacing them. I say that because it's an easy and inexpensive option (always a winner there).

The pistons might also not be operating well. Cleaning/servicing them, and even a caliper overhaul is an idea.

There are other causes, but none that hit me at this hour.

Joe
 
This is a follow up report on the braking issue. Well, seems like the only problem was the bike had not been ridden a lot and it only took a couple of hundred miles or so and the braking pulsation is gone. Guess the pads just needed to be reset, if that is the correct word. anyway thanks guys for the insight and tips.
 
Back
Top