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Breva clutch slipping

That's certainly more trouble than I'm prepared to go to. My method:
Drain oil while engine is really hot.
Allow to drain overnight.
Remove and discard filter.
Fit new filter filled almost to the top with oil.
Refit drain plug.
Fill sump until the oil level comes mid way up the dipstick range.
Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two.
Let it stand for a few minutes then check the level again and adjust to about 5mm below max level.
Reset the service spanner icon.

The oil volumes given are for a new, dry engine. It's impossible to get all the old oil out of anything.

Gearbox oil level when cold and after standing still and upright - about 10mm below the bottom of the filler hole.

CARC oil level when cold and after standing still and upright - about level with the bottom of the filler hole. Spinning the wheel will pick up oil and lower the visible level.
 
torino54 said:
My clutch suddenly started slipping after being parked for many months. What could be possible causes and solutions to look at? Ran perfect before this. Many thanks
Click to expand...

Happened to me last year on my 750 Breva. Turned out that this was the first sign of seizing of the rod which is pushed by the clutch actuator arm (out of sight in front of the back wheel). Anyway I left it thinking there was too much play (or something) in the clutch springs which could be fixed at the next service. So a few months later, it was getting harder to operate the clutch and change gear. Next thing, the rod seized solid and because it is not easily accsessible, what could have been solved with a bit of oil/grease in the right place led to a complete strip down job and a very large bill from my local dealer.

I realise that this is quite different from other posts on this - but, hopefully, it will save somebody a lot of expense.
 
Poor lubrication of the clutch actuating rod would have to originate from assembly time. Short of removing the slave cylinder to access, remove and lube the rod I'm unaware of any way to lube it. Maybe over-filling the gearbox would do it but then you might be lubing the clutch as well.
 
Further to the last two posts, taking some photos of all the pieces laid out on the bench would have been the smart thing to do. Sadly I am not that smart.

Anyway to try and provide a little more detail. The clutch cable operates a lever (called the 'Clutch relese shaft' in Table 13 of the 750 Breva Parts Manual). The bit that seized was the pin that then passes through the clutch housing to move the the thrust bearing and clutch rod. The story was that water (and possibly salt) had worked its way to this pin and (partly) because I do not use the bike on a daily (or sometimes even weekly) basis this allowed some corrosion to develop. This, in turn, restricted movement of the clutch mechanism leading to, firstly, clutch spinning from time to time and then to increasing difficulties in clutch operation. Now that the whole clutch has been rebuilt - we have a large dollop of grease on the outside to try and reduce the chance of any future water (or whatever) ingress.

Hopefully others will be able to provide more explanation to make up for my lack of hands-on expertise.
 
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