• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Breva V1100 battery readings

G

GrahamNZ

High Miler
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
618
Location
Wellington New Zealand
Further to the thread in the Small Block Forum, these readings may be of interest.

At battery terminals with no load - 12.7V (A good reading for a well charged battery)
At battery terminals with key on - 12.1V ( A predictable drop due to current draw)
Bike's LCD screen with key on - 11.8V
VDSTS screen with key on - 11.8V

At battery terminals with engine idling - 13.8V (A good reading for a sound charging system)
Bike's LCD screen with engine idling - 13.2V
VDSTS screen with engine idling - 13.0V

TPS reading with key on - 4.5 degrees
TPS reading with engine idling at around 1150rpm - 4.5 degrees, occasionally droping momentarily to 4.3 degrees. Why the drop?
 
I have just done a check on my Norge. Had a battery die so thought it would be worth checking the charging.
No matter what engine speed, the dash indicates 12.9/13 volts, but this dropped after a few minutes to 12.7/12.8 volts.
Battery volts across the terminals - 13 volts dropping slightly later, so I get no difference between the dash and battery reading. It also seems as though I have a charging problem. More investigation required.
Haven't checked with VDST yet, but don't expect that to report anything different.
 
GrahamNZ said:
TPS reading with engine idling at around 1150rpm - 4.5 degrees, occasionally droping momentarily to 4.3 degrees. Why the drop?
Click to expand...

Drop is probably due to vibration. It is just a potentiometer and there is a little "slack" in all of them or they can't move. 0.2 degrees isn't much.
 
OK correction to my figures.
Just checked again with digital meter, and VDSTS.
Dash reading 12.8v
VDST 13.1v
Across battery 13.8 v.

I also reset the TPS and when engine was not running it read 4.8, but on tickover 5.0. I had just rebalanced the throttle bodies, so the reading was 7.0 before the reset.
 
Brian UK said:
OK correction to my figures.
Just checked again with digital meter, and VDSTS.
Dash reading 12.8v
VDST 13.1v
Across battery 13.8 v.

I also reset the TPS and when engine was not running it read 4.8, but on tickover 5.0. I had just rebalanced the throttle bodies, so the reading was 7.0 before the reset.
Click to expand...

A little trick I use when a TPS resets a little high is to place a 0.05 to 0.1mm (0.002 to 0.004 inch) feeler gauge between the throttle stop and the throttle. Do the reset then remove the gauge. The TPS should then be in range when you remove the gauge. Use the gauge that give you the best reading once it is removed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top