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Cali 1100 EV misfiring

G

Greenwich

Just got it firing!
Joined
Oct 29, 2014
Messages
4
Location
Greenwich
Hi - I have a 2012 Cali EV that is misfiring and popping and backfiring horribly, especially between 2,000 and 4,500 rpm. I've checked valve clearances and put in new plugs. It is also losing battery charge quickly despite apparently charging OK. Does anyone has any ideas? My next thought was timing, but I don't know how to approach that...

Thanks

Seb
 
I believe Todd is correct on the running issue. For the battery drain, Have you checked the running voltage? If running voltage is good, but drops quickly after shutting down, you may have a parasitic drain. If this is the case, install an ammeter between the positive terminal to the battery and the bike's wiring. Note the amount of drain. Then isolate circuits one at a time (this can be done by removing a fuse) until the drain is eliminated. You then know which circuit to inspect and correct.
 
Thanks both. I have a multimeter that seems to show reasonable charge when running at 5k - something like 13.5 volts. But after doing 100 miles yesterday, I got home to find it would hardly start and the battery (which has been tested and is good) was at 10.5 volts!

Excuse my ignorance, but what is a TPS? And as to a parasitic drain, where might I attach the end of the ammeter that isn't on the battery - you say to the bike's wiring. Would that be to an earth, ie the frame?

Seb
 
TPS = Throttle Position Sensor - a search here or here; http://archive.guzzitech.com -- will be of help. Also search battery drain here, and you will also see that even a "new" battery (which could be 3+ years old already), is likely nearing the end of it's service life. Newer batteries have limited allowable lead content, hence a short service life. I'd recommend a load test from a battery shop, and replace it if necessary, and that will resolve that issue for you.
 
Seb, Seems you have much to learn about electronics. A parasitic drain, is current draining the battery when it shouldn't. To detect that drain, you disconnect the positive terminal and place an ammeter between the battery and bike wiring to see if there is current flow (amps). With the key off, there shouldn't be any on your bike. Other bikes will have some as the ECU and other components may have a clock or other function always live. This web site was provided in another thread and may be of help to you. http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/
 
John - thankyou, I understand the notion of a parasitic drain, but you haven't answered my question of where exactly I attach the ammeter to "the bike's wiring". I'd appreciate that.

john zibell said:
Seb, Seems you have much to learn about electronics. A parasitic drain, is current draining the battery when it shouldn't. To detect that drain, you disconnect the positive terminal and place an ammeter between the battery and bike wiring to see if there is current flow (amps). With the key off, there shouldn't be any on your bike. Other bikes will have some as the ECU and other components may have a clock or other function always live. This web site was provided in another thread and may be of help to you. http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/
Click to expand...
 
Ignition off and leave it off. First set your ammeter to the 10 amp range (assuming it is a multimeter). Then disconnect the wire that goes to the positive battery terminal, then place one lead of your ammeter to the positive battery terminal and the other lead of your ammeter to the wire you just removed and observe any current flowing, you will have to drop the range of the meter down very low to observe any drain, hopefully you see zero. Do not attempt to start the bike with the meter in series with the battery like this otherwise you will damage the meter. My Breva has a drain of only 2 mA and that is the inbuilt alarm LED that flashes every couple of seconds. With my ign turned on there is a drain of about 5A,
 
I just re-read your post. 13.5v @5k RPM is too low. There's an issue there, my bet is a voltage regulator which has been plaguing the newer V7's lately. What do you have at idle? It's a newer bike, so even a faulty/dirty TPS is unlikely, but could be. Since you have a 15RC ECU, you'll need the diagnostic software to troubleshoot and reset the TPS as it is electronic reset only. Also you might have a faulty 02-sensor, which could cause running issues like you describe. Additionally, is the bike still al stock? Even if so, fueling corrections are highly recommended; https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/guzzitech-power-commander-v-information.2686/
 
Thanks for all the advice. I've now had it looked at by a Guzzi mechanic who says he has identified an intermittent charging fault at low revs and so is going to replace the rectifier. Let's see if that sorts it out.
 
Just a thought here but I'd consider replacing the battery, in my experience once a battery has gone flat even just once they never seem to hold a full charge again and can cause all sorts of problems.
 
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