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Cali 1100, front crankcase cover gasket replace

GuzziHero

GuzziHero

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
485
Location
Stoke-on-Bloody-Trent
I love this bike...why does it hate me so? :(

My frontmost crankcase gasket is leaking. Admittedly, I do ride it pretty hard...

All I need to know is, what would I have to remove to replace it myself, and is it a job suitable for a very basic mechanic?

I notice that the 2 frontmost engine mounts attach to the cover, if I support the engine, is the cover removable without splitting the engine out of the frame?

I know mine isnt a Jackal but for clarification, the one I am talking about is part 14 here: http://www.speedaway.co.uk/part/100074/ ... er_page/12

Thanks in advance of any/all replies!
 
By removing the front wheel and fender you get enough room to work. Also both headers need to be removed. Then support the engine on blocks or a jack. Trick is to get straight access to all the allens. A long 5mm allen on 3/8 drive does the trick. As long as you have the cover off, replace the crank seal. Once disturbed you don't want to use it again. Check with your dealer as I believe an upgraded gasket is available. It is pricey, but not the flimsy paper gasket originally used and still available.

How many miles on your cam chain? To do the cover you are mostly there to replace it. If it is close to 90-100 thousand miles, I'd replace the cam chain. Also use the blade type tensioner (like this one http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=347 ) as the stock Guzzi one is lacking. To get the crank nut off, I purchased two deep impact sockets and had the end cut off one and then welded them together to be long enough to reach the crank nut. Then you can use an impact wrench to remove the nut.
 
Hmm, sounds possible then :) I am there only to replace the gasket due to an oil leak from the top.

I really appreciate the advice on the gasket upgrade, I'd have just fitted an original type if not for that. Might be able to do it without dropping the wheel and fender, I think.

I have some deep throat air ratchet sockets, so they should do the crank no fuss. My engine seems to have a single bolt through the bottom of the crank cover to support the engine, so I may only have to remove one exhaust header. For some reason those parts diagrams do not seem to show this bolt, or I cant find it.

My bike only has 35k miles on it, do you think it's worth doing the chain and tensioner anyway?

It's lucky that this has happened just as I was about to do an oil filter change!
 
Ok, my procedure should be as follows, just checking to be sure:

Support engine with jack.
Remove right hand side exhaust from header.
Remove bottom engine-to-frame bolt.
Undo alternator cover.
Remove alternator with central nut.
Remove crankcase cover and gasket.
Rebuild.

Sounds like a snip. Only one question now - should I put the gasket onto dry surfaces or should it be lubed/greased/Holymar'd?

Cheers again for all the help you are giving :)
 
The new gasket is a coated metal one with a line of pre-applied snot incorporated in it. No need for anything else. Just make sure you get ALL of the original off.

It's not a huge job. You sometimes have to pry the frame rails apart a bit to get the timing cover back in. Just be gentle and patient.

Pete
 
Much appreciated, buddy :) I will seek out one of the metal gaskets tomorrow.

I have also read to be extremely careful not to scratch the surface of the crank case. I'm hoping surgical spirits or thinners will remove the old gasket, with a piece of soft wood as a light scraper if required.
 
Ahh just remembered. I'll also check the crankcase breather to see if thats blocked. Not sure where it is, but I'll find it!
 
GuzziHero said:
My bike only has 35k miles on it, do you think it's worth doing the chain and tensioner anyway?
Click to expand...

I don't think it is necessary to change the chain at this point. I would consider upgrading the tensioner though. You only need the double deep impact socket to get the nut that holds the sprocket on the crank. The crank nose is very long.
 
Right, decided to have a look under the tank. Its not the gasket gone...

This bike is fitted with conical air filters. This means that the crankcase breather comes from the back of the motor through a pipe into the frame? Its spilling out there.

Now, is that a case of the breather pipe being blocked or blocked in the frame? I remember my V50 had a little box under the tank which rusted the hell up and spat oil everywhere.

Sorry if I am answering my own questions here, but being a very basic mechanic, I just want to be sure that what I am doing is correct.
 
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!

All it was in the end was the breather return blown off. I removed both crankcase breather and frame return, blew through with compressed air, and blew through the frame too. No problem at all, it had just popped off. Its now jubilee clipped in place.

I was helped all the more by finding a WildGuzzi forum post by Mr Roper which explained how the system worked.

Thanks to you both, gents!
 
Re: Bloody hell, what now?

Right, connected the oil pipe, sprayed the area down with degreaser, washed the bike today.

Now, its misfiring, and the RPM gauge is jumping like a Mexican bean.

I've taken the alternator cover off and inside is... a bit of water running down to the electrical pickup. Dried that off, dried off the crank speed sensor.

Right now, the alternator cover is off and the misfiring seems to have stopped, but the RPM sensor stays on 1000RPM even when I rev it.

It has a Silent Hektik ignition system

Question is, theres another sensor/sender on the left side of the engine as you sit on the bike, JUST in front of the barrel. This was covered in oil/gunk/water so I have cleaned it, but I'm not sure what it actually does. Is there anything else I should look out for/pay particular attention to when I finish off cleaning it all up tomorrow?

---
---
Edit:
Answered my own question - its the oil pressure switch. Right, hopefully I've cleaned off enough to make it run right again :S What made me think hosing Gunk off the front of the engine was ever going to be a good idea?

I'm going to give everything that was in the path of the oil a good clean and wipe, and hope I havent killed my crank sensor.
 
Chances are its just the pipe is perished and split. Have a squeeze of it and see if its got splits in it. If its more than 3 years old I'll bet it has.

Be aware that at the bottom end of the pipe is a ball type PCV valve. Since the engine will sublime off a lot of water that tends to condense in the pipe and frame it is worth making sure its in good shape and replacing it if neccessary as they sometimes end up with water sitting on them and go rusty. Then they don't work very well. (Funnily enough!) Both pipe and ball valve are cheap. Use hose clamps on the new hose rather than the crimp clamps.

Pete
 
I had a look and neither seemed to have any splits, and neither has a ball valve. That part confused me, as the post I saw of yours on WildGuzzi mentioned one. On the breather return, right?

I'll get some proper hose clamps. Main thing right now is to see if it runs right again!
 
GuzziHero said:
I had a look and neither seemed to have any splits, and neither has a ball valve. That part confused me, as the post I saw of yours on WildGuzzi mentioned one. On the breather return, right?

I'll get some proper hose clamps. Main thing right now is to see if it runs right again!
Click to expand...

You do want the PCV valve in there. It sits in the return pipe at the rear of the block. It is part number 28 15 05 60.
 
Ah, so it stops condensation dropping into the oil I'm with ya.

So part number 28157050 should be right then.

I think its fair to say with the bodged rear mudguard, no fuel warning light, jury rigged tail lights and wiring, extremely worn sidestand bracket and now this...that a previous owner of this bike was a complete nipple. Luckily, I'm having fun sorting it out :)

I'll clean that wiring up and test the misfiring soon.

---
Cleaned up the contacts as best I can, I'll get some contact cleaner and do it better later.

Its still running lumpy, but a LOT better than it was, so I'm on the right track. But now my RPM gauge isnt reporting...

Oh, and found out that the steering damper rod has been hitting the l/h/s cylinder. It was wobbly, on the frame pin. I tried to tighten it and the pin broke straight off. Judging by what looks to be some sort of resin, I think its been broken and badly repaired in the past...

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THE GAUGE IS BACK IN TOWN.

I'd disconnected the right hand coil, most likely while taking the tank off ;) Bike is perfect now (except for the fuel warning light...and the steering damper...and a needed re-spray... and... * )

Mission successful...let's go to the pub ;)
 
As for the steering damper, they aren't really needed on an EV. Remove the offending part and put it's replacement very low on the priority list, it at all.
 
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