• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Cali Stone - slight stumble

Yellowheader

Just got it firing!
GT Contributor
Joined
Aug 5, 2016
Messages
18
Location
Edmonton, Canada
I've had my '04 Stone for about 3 months now. The engine starts and runs flawlessly, except for one niggly thing. When I'm riding along at a steady 50 km/h (30 mph) in 2nd gear, I often feel the bike hesitate and then surge forward. The engine doesn't miss or backfire or anything, so you don't really hear it, but you definitely feel it. It also does sometimes in 3rd gear @ 60 km/h, but not as often. The stutter doesn't occur when I'm accelerating or decelerating past those speeds, just at a steady cruise. The bike runs smooth and pulls strong at any other speed from idle on up.
In the way of troubleshooting, it has new plugs and a clean air filter. I've tried fuel conditioner (Seafoam) but it doesn't seem to make a difference. Could the problem be with my ECM mapping? Thanks in advance.
 
Have you synchronized the throttle bodies and set the TPS? Also the TPS on these machines is under the throttle body. It is not uncommon for it to be contaminated by fuel. Sometimes they need to be removed and cleaned with an electrical contact cleaner, or replaced. Only do this if you have done the sync and set the TPS and the problem continues.
 
Thanks to all of you for the advice and useful links. Looks like I have a whole new avenue of motorcycle repair to explore this winter!
 
Hey I've had the exact same issue with my 03 Cali. Feels like it's running lean?
I've finally sorted it.
I went through and balanced the throttles, I didn't do the TPS as I could not for the life of me get a reading back probing them. But I wasn't worried as when I plugged into the ECU the TPS readings were correct. I will make a piggy back loom and do again anyway.

So, I went though this procedure: http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.co.nz/2012/10/throttle-position-sensor-setting_21.html
Key point is I set the running balance at 2500-2800rpm right where the stutter was for me in 2nd.
I also whilst plugged into the ECU changed the CO trim to 0. previously is was -72.
I can now sit bang on 50kmh in 2nd gear at barely open throttle and it's steady as a rock!
This is a huge relief as I had grown to hate riding it in town traffic
 
Thanks Mr. R, that how-to article is perfect. I have ECU connector cables on order, so when they arrive I'll give it a go. Did you use a home-made manometer or store-bought gauges for balancing?
 
Thanks Mr. R, that how-to article is perfect. I have ECU connector cables on order, so when they arrive I'll give it a go. Did you use a home-made manometer or store-bought gauges for balancing?

I bought a Carbtune one. Was actually a lot cheaper than I thought. I did make a home made one, but it was pretty crude and I liked the non fluid idea behind carbtune
 
Well, riding season is here again, so I finally got the Stone hooked up to GuzziDiag and a manometer of my own making. I'm grateful to those here and on other forums for explaining which end is up. Anyway, the throttle bodies were way out of balance both at idle and at higher rpms, so I started by syncing them. Once I got them balanced as best I could, I noticed that if I twist the throttle up very gently from idle, the left cylinder draws a lot stronger than the right. If I twist more firmly, both sides draw more evenly. Does this indicate there is still something amiss with my throttle setup?
 
Research more on what to touch and what not to touch. Air bleeds control idle balance, link rod controls balance at RPM.
 
Research more on what to touch and what not to touch. Air bleeds control idle balance, link rod controls balance at RPM.
I followed BradtheBikeBoy's instructions which, if I read correctly, say to adjust the idle balance with the RH throttle stop screw. You're saying that's not right?

I've had a chance to go for a ride now, and the dead spot seems to be gone. Idle is noticeably smoother too, so I think I'll leave it at that for now.
 
I don't have time to go looking at random other's instructions on settings that have been posted here way back early last decade. Any throttle stop-screw topped (originally) with yellow paint is the no-touch. Air bleeds and balance screw between the two TB's are the only ones to mess with once you have a balance tool connected.
Certainly you can follow any random thing you find on the net, sure. WTF do I know. ;)
 
Certainly you can follow any random thing you find on the net, sure. WTF do I know. ;)
Indeed, WTF do I know? It's pretty hard for a newbie researching how to do something to know what sources are reliable. So I'll try what you recommend and see how it goes. Thanks for replying quickly.
 
Back
Top