• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

California 1400 Fuel Filter

abbienormal

abbienormal

High Miler
GT Famiglia
Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
899
Location
Niles, OH
For those of you who were wondering or worried like I was the 1400 apparently comes with the all steel Mahle KL-145 filter as original equipment. I pulled mine and replaced it tonight as I was worried it was the old half plastic unit. One problem is the light wall fuel line they use and the sharp bend. It is tough to get a heavier fuel line to make that bend and clear the vent tube inside the fuel tank. Took me several tries. I used the NAPA 3032 as it was easily available, cheap and had a good reputation. Same size as original.

IMG 5364 IMG 5371
 
OMG. I told the guy at NAPA I needed some good fuel line for a submersed fuel injection pump. I never read or looked at the line. I checked it for fit and that was it. I cannot believe I missed that and I am so grateful you spotted that. Now I have to,pull the tank again and change it. :banghead:
 
Ok. Once again thanks for being literate John. I still can't believe I did not read that. The new fuel injection approved submersible line (Gates from NAPA) is stiffer and I already had problems getting the new line to go in without interfering with the vent tube inside the tank. It is coiled, I suppose to prevent fuel splashing out. I hope it never plugs up like the drain on my Norge. I went a bit longer to prevent kinking then moved it off to one side. that would be about the fourth time cutting fuel line and trying to get the assembly in while making sure sure I could not feel it hitting anything so the line did not wear through. The one picture is of the coiled line in the tank. The round object at the base of the picture is the float for the fuel level. Had I known for sure it had an all metal filter from the factory it would still be in there. I'd figure about 50,000 miles I might have thought about it. The OEM fuel line is really thin, hard and I imagine pre-molded.

2015 01 06 new fuel filter and line 1 2015 01 06 new fuel filter and line 2 IMG 5367
 
abbienormal said:
Had I known for sure it had an all metal filter from the factory it would still be in there. I'd figure about 50,000 miles I might have thought about it. The OEM fuel line is really thin, hard and I imagine pre-molded.
Click to expand...

Thank you for posting this. Based on the challenges of getting the fuel line in place it probably makes sense to buy the OEM replacement parts.
 
Other than some issues with early Griso machines, the OEM Guzzi fuel line works well. I've replaced several fuel filters and just re-used the Guzzi fuel line and used new Oetiker clamps.
 
I did not totally install the tank, leaving off the front covers and chrome gas cap cover, while i debated doing exactly that. My paranoia of something going wrong because I changed it is bothering me over the loop of fuel line. I have not tested the OEM fuel line on the NAPA filter but I did try all the hose clamps I had on the OEM line. Only a worm type would have gone down that small. My next step would be to buy a set of the Oetiker pliers and clamps. A little pricey for something I have only needed one other time. Still debating. I am getting faster at pulling the tank though!
I had heard of problems with Guzzi fuel lines on some models but I did not know how common it was. Sounds not as common as I thought.
 
As the old saying goes: "Learn from the mistakes of others. You don't have enough time to make them all yourself." I am not an employee of or related to Todd :angel: but I am going to put a plug in here for us amateurs to buy Todd's fuel filter assembly. It comes with the needed clamps. Myself, I bought the NAPA as it was handy, good reputation and cheap. After the fiasco with the lines I decided to use the OEM lines and crimp type clamps. I could not find the $5 tool Todd mentioned and I am a bit of a tool snob anyway so I bought the Oetiker tool for $20 from Amazon. I also bought a pack of the crimp clamps for smaller hose. I know the max size was 11.5mm but I forget the minimum. I hope Todd's will fit this size as the OEM fuel line on the 1400 is thin and stiff. Good luck trying to get the NAPA filter into those lines. It does not have much of a lead and the the line did not want to start easily. I could have warmed up the lines or pushed harder but since you can not buy them separate from the $500 pump assembly a quick look around found me a Mahle KL-145 filter for $11 so I played it safe. They also appear to be a dual layer line as the inside is gray and the outside black.
Note that the 1400 shop manual does not have a recommended change interval for the filter so if you are smarter than me you will never know what it looks like in there unless you get some bad gas. I know my PC800 has a smaller filter and most guys go 100,000 before changing it. I did get some rust (some brown stuff assumed to be rust) out of the original filter though when I drained it. I did that into a glass to see what came out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top