Cam chain crank sprocket nut tool? LM IV

[capstan1]

Hi All,
I'm changing my cam chain for the first time and looking for advice on tool for removing the slotted lock nut which retains the crank sprocket. I have done a bit of research and evidently Rolf Halvorsen in Norway makes beautiful tools for this job. I am in Australia though and wanted to do this next weekend.
I've heard C spanners can doe the job? If so, does anyone know the right size?

Or.... Does anyone know of a functional alternative?

Cheers,
James

 

[contractor20]

I' ve got a piece of heavy walled galv pipe that was a fraction too small, cut some extra material away to leave the required 'pegs' using a hacksaw and drill and hand files (close enough was good enough) then some long cuts (3 or 4) so I could spread the tube to fit very snug over the nut and welded up the cuts. I reckon I only welded it up 7 or 8 years ago (I made it 20 years ago) and you could do it twice as quick with an angle grinder. Make it 6-8 inches long then drill a 12 mm hole across the tube close to the non peg end to run a bar/ big skrew driver through.
It doesn't need to be elegant, just functional !!
I think I set up the other end for another size but cant remember what for :? :? maybe the gearbox input shaft, holds the clutch boss on I think :idea:

The simplest tool is a length of steel rod and a hammer, (I think I used a cold chisel once )and just knock it undone. When its time to replace just hammer it tight these nuts take huge torque loads so dont worry about "too tight"
The nuts and tab washers can be got from bearing supply houses if you mash it a bit too much
edit
If you was in the NSW guzzi club I'd bet me granma they have one in the club tool kit :whistle:

 

[john zibell]

I doubt a c spanner could take it off. You could get the factory tool from a dealer which has handles, or have MG cycle here in the USA air freight one too you. The tools are listed on this page. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?cPath= ... a90c43d54a

 

[capstan1]

Hey Kym and John,

Thanks heaps for both responses. The tools on MG Cycle are great but have ordered from them before and their postage is (way way way) too prohibitive to OZ. The quote was something like $50.00 for a wee little small package. Sometimes I get very jealous of the deals offered in the states!

I think I'll go a hammer with a long punch this time around.

Kym, does the NSW club meet at the Friend in Hand in Glebe? I've been meaning to pop in sometime.

Cheers,
James

 

[john zibell]

Hey Kym and John,

Thanks heaps for both responses. The tools on MG Cycle are great but have ordered from them before and their postage is (way way way) too prohibitive to OZ. The quote was something like $50.00 for a wee little small package. Sometimes I get very jealous of the deals offered in the states!

I think I'll go a hammer with a long punch this time around.

Kym, does the NSW club meet at the Friend in Hand in Glebe? I've been meaning to pop in sometime.

Cheers,
James

Doesn't anyone in Australia have a tool you could borrow? Hammer and punch just makes me cringe :shock:

 

[capstan1]

I know what you mean. Will pull off the cover and check it out first.

 

[Mc Tool]

Yeah.... the ole hammer and punch aint great but needs must and it doesn't have to be as bad as it could be .
Get a new nut,If your able to source a "hex" one get the right deep socket and Bob's yer auntie ...... otherwise remove old nut, (this is a brilliant oppertunity to practice the tecnique) by tapping on alternative notches in turn so that the tapping is applied reasonably evenly round the circumference of the nut ( more important for fitting the new nut ). Use a decient sized punch , something you can get a grip on with room to spare ,there is nothing so concerntration robbing as the thought of hitting your hand with the ( yet to be mentioned ) BIG hammer ( BFH for those in the know ) yes ... a big un. Its much easier to retain control of the kinetic energy required by tapping lightly with a big hammer than swinging a small hammer , same deal to fit new nut and as said by another , there aint much chance of over tightening . Give some thought as to how you are going to support the assy while your working on it as you really dont want it moving about while your raining blows on everything but the end of the punch

 

[contractor20]

All good points McTool, ...you can pop it in gear and lock on the brake to hold the crank.

Spot on John Z, Where's the bloody camaradrie in me inch: inch:

Capstan1 Give me a PM with you postal or Phone and I'll dig mine out and send it too ya. You could drop it round to my sons place when your finished.
Wot the hell Call me on 03 51522992 I'll be inside watching the GP from 7:30 tonite or try me strait away

 

[Mc Tool]

All good points McTool, ...you can pop it in gear and lock on the brake to hold the crank.

yeah just tape the brake lever to the handle bar :roll:

 

[contractor20]

McTool Said

yeah just tape the brake lever to the handle bar :roll:

Ahhhemm... Not quite sure wot sort of setup you have (despite you recent post on brakes) but I'm pretty sure this wont work.
I'd be using the foot brake Sing along now ..The rear brakes connected to the drive train, The drive trains connected to the crankshaft, The crankshafts connected to the crankshaft nut... :whistle: :whistle: :whistle:

Now hold on your not taken the piss are ya :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

 

[Mc Tool]

McTool Said

yeah just tape the brake lever to the handle bar :roll:

Ahhhemm... Not quite sure wot sort of setup you have (despite you recent post on brakes) but I'm pretty sure this wont work.
I'd be using the foot brake Sing along now ..The rear brakes connected to the drive train, The drive trains connected to the crankshaft, The crankshafts connected to the crankshaft nut... :whistle: :whistle: :whistle:

Now hold on your not taken the piss are ya :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

What :!: a Kiwi taking the piss out of an Aussie ...... never heard of such a thing (its a national passtime ), but I gotta say that Im not real kean on using the rear brake to lock up the whole plot , Ive done it to different bikes over the years but it feels all wrong to me . I have cunningly fashioned ( from purest green ) a small piece of steel that when fitted thru the flywheel/ ign timing inspection hole meshes with the ring geat teeth and locks the engine up.
I fitted a spring type cam chain tensioner ( from MG cycles )..... works good ... no funny noises ( just the ones in my head ... but they are always there :woohoo: )

 

[Guzzi_don]

I have cunningly fashioned ( from purest green ) a small piece of steel that when fitted thru the flywheel/ ign timing inspection hole meshes with the ring gear teeth and locks the engine up.
I fitted a spring type cam chain tensioner ( from MG cycles )..... works good ... no funny noises ( just the ones in my head ... but they are always there :woohoo: )

Do you have a picture of this tool. I have to replace my cam chain and tensioner next month. I got yhem from MG Cycle as well. That tool sounds the way to go in locking the engine. I had planned to use a piston stop and rattle gun. Is the camshaft nut on a T3 a hex or pegged nut?

Thanks

 

[john zibell]

I have cunningly fashioned ( from purest green ) a small piece of steel that when fitted thru the flywheel/ ign timing inspection hole meshes with the ring gear teeth and locks the engine up.
I fitted a spring type cam chain tensioner ( from MG cycles )..... works good ... no funny noises ( just the ones in my head ... but they are always there :woohoo: )

Do you have a picture of this tool. I have to replace my cam chain and tensioner next month. I got yhem from MG Cycle as well. That tool sounds the way to go in locking the engine. I had planned to use a piston stop and rattle gun. Is the camshaft nut on a T3 a hex or pegged nut?

Thanks

The cam nut is a hex. On the T3 you will need a deep socket. If you have an impact wrench, there isn't much need to lock the engine. If you feel you must hold the sprocket, there are large holes in it, and a corresponding hole in the block. I just use a bar through the cam sprocket to lock the cam. Fort removal, there is no need to hold the sprocket, the impact wrench will do the job. The crank nut however is a gland nut. That does require a special tool.

 

[Guzzi_don]

Thanks John,

I gather I will have to remove all three sprockets (oil pump included) to get the old chain off and replace the new chain and Valtech tensioner. Any tips on holding the cam and crank while torquing the large nuts on both on reassembly?

Thanks

 

[john zibell]

Thanks John,

I gather I will have to remove all three sprockets (oil pump included) to get the old chain off and replace the new chain and Valtech tensioner. Any tips on holding the cam and crank while torquing the large nuts on both on reassembly?

Thanks

Managing the three sprockets and chain is a bit tricky. I presume you know about the alignment marks on the crank and cam sprockets. The cam I use a bar to lock it. For the crank I put the bike in gear and lock the rear brake. It is helpful to have a second person to hold a bar to keep the chain tensioner back so you can get the chain on. I actually use a flat roofing bar. It work's well to hold the tensioner back out of the way, and is thin enough to be out of the way also. The tool I use looks like this one http://www.sears.com/craftsman-flat-pry ... ckType=G31 The second person could hold the rear brake for you. I use an air impact wrench at 90 psi. That gets the nuts plenty tight and I haven't had any come loose. Using the impact you don't need to lock the engine.

 

[Guzzi_don]

Thanks John, could you explain a bit further "The cam I use a bar to lock it".

Thanks

 

[john zibell]

Thanks John, could you explain a bit further "The cam I use a bar to lock it".

Thanks

Look 5 or 6 posts up from this one.

 

[Guzzi_don]

Look 5 or 6 posts up from this one.

OK thanks John, got that.