Canisterectomy performed

[octoguzzi]

Spent an hour today removing the charcoal canister. The instructions at

https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/topic.html?f=163&t=1485&hilit=canister

are good. Fortunately I had all the bolts necessary for the deed in the junkbox (one 8mm and two 6mm). The canister itself isn't particularly heavy, but the visual impact of it gone is worth 50 lbs! Bike started fine and settled into a nice even idle, so preliminary indications are good.

While it was up on the lift I also raised the forks (yes, raised. ie: more rings above the fork bridge) 14mm or two rings. There are now 5 exposed rings, counting the one that mates with the upper deck of the fork bridge. My complaint with the handling is that the bike tends to fall into corners and it's difficult to hold a line while leaned over. Damned thing steers like a chopper! That tendancy is lkely aggravated by riding two up. The shock spring seems overwhelmed on bumps, G-outs in particular. Anybody have experience with the Penske shock? The Griso just wants to pick its own random arc in a corner. Sometimes it's nice to be able to give a little rider input in the event of a rock or some sand in the road! Hopefully lowering the front by by raising the fork will restore a bit of a normal attitude to the bike. Won't be able to judge too well prolly cuz I've still got the OEM Metzlers that are showing significant wear at 3000 mi. Don't wanna start a tire thread, but gonna be looking around for some replacemants real soon.

Ain't had it out yet, started an oil change but soon found my cup type oil filter wrench that works on the Triumph is too, er, petite for the industrial strength Griso. Measuring the filter, it looks like I need a 74mm cup with 14 flutes. Somewhere I came up with a part number of DS275120, but I don't know what manufacturer that is, certainly not Guzzi. If you Google the part number, it seems to be the same filter wrench fits Beemers and HDs. Can someone confirm that?

Get back with results soon, I'm really feeling guilty about putting more miles on it before an oil change. Any carburation changes are always impacted by my being at 9000 ft ASL.

 

[octoguzzi]

Well, just returned from a 175 mile loop sans charcoal cansiter and with the forks adjusted in their clamps. Altitude varied rom 9000 ft ASL down as low as 6000. Hot day, temperature inversely proportional to altitude, from 80° to 99° F.

First the canister. Note that the one-way valve in the fuel tank vent line, often erroneously referred to as the "tip over valve," was also removed. This valve has no function in a tip over, but simply lets air into the fuel tank as the fuel level drops to prevent stalling. Normally, a tank vent would work two ways, also allowing pressure to bleed off to atmosphere as the tank heats up. Unfortunately, this is a no-no now as some gasoline fumes escape, hence the one-way valve. This little gem is responsible for the "whoosh" you hear when opening the filler cap.

Plusses:
1. Dead steady idle that predictably returns to the same spot. No surging or hanging up at high RPM.
2. Elimination of popping on the overrun for those of you who care about such things, and judging
from numerous posts, a lot of you do. This is affected by removing the vacuum lines to the inlet
tracts and plugging the holes with 6mm screws. The motor no longer goes overlean on trailing throttle.
3. No tank pressurization whatsoever.
4. Huge visual improvement. The right side of the engine no longer looks like the inside of the engine
compartment on an Austrian Holden Commodore. (Nothing against Commodores, I own one in the
guise of a Pontiac G8.)

Negatives: None.

-----------------------

Now the steering with the forks raised.

Is it noticeable? Yes.
Is it transformative? Yes.
Does it now steer like a Speed Triple? No.

But the difference is amazing. No more chopperesque tendencies for the forks to fall to the inside of the corner, whether at walking pace in a parking lot or at speed. You can now actually pick a line in corner and stay on it. The bike still shakes its head a bit on tip in as if it’s not quite sure, but quickly settles down into smooth arc once committed. No more driving itself. Even my wife noticed the difference from pillion.

My biggest remaining problem is the limp-as-a-dishrag rear shock. Especially leaned over, bumps tend to upset the bike and create the “hinge in the middle” effect. It also induces what the car guys call “bump steer,” a varying from the chosen line as the ass end pogos around. For now I’ll just try cranking in some more preload and rebound damping, but what I really need is a higher spring rate and damping to cope with it. Another inch or so of travel would be nice too, but...

Anyway, no more dinking with the geometry until new tires are fitted. The OEM Metzes are about shot @3300 miles and the rear is squared off pretty badly. Once it has new weenies, I’ll try one more ring on the forks just to see if there’s more good in there or not. If not, then back to the fifth ring setting.

 

[thirdguzzi]

I've not yet ventured into anything like a canisterectomy but the handling stuff sounds interesting. I used to have a Triumph Speed Triple (1995) and I can say that even though the handling was pretty good, my Griso fills me with shed-loads more confidence. From the moment the roads were dry I have been easily getting the side stand grinding away (half way through the bar that sticks out the side of the stand) and putting loads of power down even to the edge of the tyre. Occasionally I get an arse end power slide or a wobble from grease/grit but this is easily controlled with the wide bars - all in all bloody fantastic. I could never do anything like this on the Triple.
It is on factory settings on suspensions apart from backing off the compression damping. It feels rock hard at slow speeds (50mph and lower) but once going at silly speed on great Derbyshire bendy roads (avoiding the coppers) the suspension is perfect with bumps easily negotiated - and very smooth. It also rolls smoothly into corners at all speeds. Not yet been 2-up - the other half needs new gear! so don't know how that'll be. The prospect of fighting the rear shock compressions seems a pain - or is there an easier way to quickly set this for pillions? I'll check the settings and post these.