• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

centauro cylinder psi

BRIAN

Just got it firing!
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Messages
16
I recently took my centauro to a shop to have the fi sorted out. The tech checked the bike over and came up with some issues to deal with. One thing he brought up was the big difference in cylinder psi. He said the right was 175 and the left 225. He suggested that the right could have a bent rod preveting a full pumpup or the left had carbon build up causing over pump.

What should the psi be and does the tech's explanation make sense?
 
Throttle wide open one assumes?

175 sounds about right, maybe just a trigle low, depends on lots of things. Right is too high. Before you go ripping the head off i'd check the valve timing. My guess is that the cam on the high side is running advanced.

Pete
 
Thanx for the reply.

The tech said that the left was 225 possibly because of carbon build up because the fi was not working as it should. I've had carbon build up in cylinders before but never to the extent that it would cause the psi to jump like this. Does that make any sense?
 
I think carbon build up is highly unlikely. Carbon will form from oil deposits burning onto the piston crown or combustion chamber surface. With Nicasil bores if the rings loose their tension or go beyond service limits the oil that slips past tends to wash the squishband clean rather than build up deposits. The 'Old' Hi-Cam has valve guide oil seals but any oil coming down the inlet guides would tend to form deposits on the backs of the inlet valves rather than the pistons/combustion chambers.

I have't seen a badly coked up engine for many, many years and never one that runs FI. as I said. Check the valve timing on the high side. Betcha its advanced. The 'Old' Hi-Cam has vernier wheels for the belt sprockets. The cam needn't be out a full belt tooth, just timed wrong. Get your bloke to stick a degree wheel on it and check the timing.

Pete
 
I will pass this on to the tech tomorrow. Can you explain to me how timing being off would affect psi? I thought that psi is measured with all valves closed and the piston moving thru tdc. How would the timing being off raise the psi.

thanx again for your time.
 
I get Pete's line of thought, If the cam timing is off and the valves closing sooner then they should on the compression stroke there would be a bigger volume of air that gets compressed equaling a higher then normal compression.
 
Pretty much. advancing lobe centres will, especially at low RPM, enhance cylinder fill and boost VE. That means that there will be a more complete cylinder fill as the piston passes BDC and the inlet valve closes earlier so less gas is forced back out of the cylinder as the piston accends on the compression stroke meaning a higher pressure will be reached at TDC compression.

Pete
 
Back
Top