• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

CHECK THIS BOLT!!

John in PA

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
255
Location
Hollidaysburg, PA
I was double-checking fit with the side case during Mistral exhaust install today and noticed that the main bolt which supports the CAT dead center behind the transmission was backed out around a half inch. That struck me as "odd." It also lacked the telltale yellow paint splash indicating recheck at the factory. I checked it (6mm allen and ratchet) and found that it was indeed loose. It screws into a blind threaded cast boss on the underside of the transmission case. This picture identifies the bolt, already tightened with as much torque as a prudent man would apply, and you can clearly see that the fastener is about 6mm too long for its intended job. (Rear of the bike is the left side of the pic, view from the right side of the bike

EDITED: LEAVING THIS POST HERE FOR CONTEXT, AND AS OTHERS MIGHT WONDER WHETHER THIS BOLT SHOULD *APPEAR* TO BE OVERLY LONG. CHECK YOURS ANYWAY ! THOUGH IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE LONG ENOUGH TO ALLOW FOR EXPANSION, MINE HAD INDEED VIBRATED LOOSE AND BACKED OUT AN ADDITIONAL 10-12 MM. CORRECT INFORMATION IN SUBSEQUENT POSTS.

I will be removing and replacing it after shortening it appropriately, but it clearly had vibrated about halfway out in just 200 miles or so of riding, so y'all might want to give yours a peep. (**This is the wrong solution!! see below for more information.**)

View attachment 29767
 
Last edited:
Ugh… good that that you found that. I remember a post from a member named Pippen who had one of the early water hose clamp leaks. He took a lot of his bike apart looking for the source of the leak, and commented on some loose parts. I guess we ought to be on the lookout. Good luck!
 
Problem solved. Fishing through the multi-drawer cabinets on the "Pegboard of Orphaned Guzzi Parts," I found a machined aluminum bushing just the right diameter and thickness (0.300") to allow proper torque on the bolt without bottoming in the casting. Easier that cutting and cleaning up the threads on that hardened bolt.
Done!
Now, I wonder what other surprises await...

NOTE: THIS WAS THE INCORRECT THING TO DO!! FURTHER INFORMATION FOLLOWS IN SUBSEQUENT POSTS, THIS THREAD.
:rolleyes::eek:


View attachment 29768:rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
You shouldn't have done it. All Mandellos have long such bolt, it is done that way to allow thermal expansion of the exhaust where catalytic converter will generate much heat.
 
You shouldn't have done it. All Mandellos have long such bolt, it is done that way to allow thermal expansion of the exhaust where catalytic converter will generate much heat.
Exactly, a lot of exhaust systems have such a long bolts for a purpose.
 
You shouldn't have done it. All Mandellos have long such bolt, it is done that way to allow thermal expansion of the exhaust where catalytic converter will generate much heat.
Exactly, a lot of exhaust systems have such a long bolts for a purpose.

OK, I'll bite.

What should John have done?

Bill
 
The bolt had backed out at least a half inch in 200 miles riding. There is a rubber (silicone??) bushing mount with a steel inner bushing to prevent over-tightening. Doesn't the rubber bushing provide for vibration and expansion needs?
 
  • Like
Reactions: BDS
My $.02… IF I kept that heater box in place, I’d use a treaded stud into the casting with thread-locker, and double nut the end. 10mm seems excessive! Also destined for demise IMO.
On “race” systems, this mounting point is not needed and is problematic if used in my experience.
 
The bolt to check is the one that connect the muffler to the passenger footpeg. I heard couple of Mandellos that had the bolt loose and if you don't tighten, weight and vibrations can crack the exhaust pipe.

Luckily mine was well tightened :)
 
My $.02… IF I kept that heater box in place, I’d use a treaded stud into the casting with thread-locker, and double nut the end. 10mm seems excessive! Also destined for demise IMO.
On “race” systems, this mounting point is not needed and is problematic if used in my experience.
“IF” … I like that😁.
 
Fascinating! So, maybe your bolt wasn’t “loose” after all? That’s what worried me. Ride on!😁
No, it had vibrated out at least 10-12mm further. That's what caught my eye in the first place. And the CAT is quite heavy. When removing/replacing the bolt, a padded scissor jack is necessary if you're doing it solo like I did.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BDS
Here is a picture of mine , my dealer has said don't touch it , and they will look at it when they take it in , but I had the same discussion on a FB page and everyone's else's seem's the same .
 
Back
Top