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Checking for previous fuel mods on my Norge 8V

abbienormal

High Miler
GT Famiglia
Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
899
Location
Niles, OH
I know I should just live with the lousy mileage on my Norge but it is low enough (35mpg) to make me think something is not right. I am the third owner of this bike and I am wondering if the PO made any modification. What would I look for if someone had installed one of those cheater kits that tells the bike it is leaner than it actually is? I have had the tank and airbox off and not noticed any wiring that looked suspect but I wasn't looking either. I may check the shop manual to see how to test the exhaust sensor. Bike runs fine.
 
First off I would use diagnostic software to find out if any sensors are reporting incorrect information. The biggest culprit in my experience is the engine temperature sensor reporting a temperature far less than actual. Also that software should tell you the latest revision of the map installed. There is a sticky post in the CARC section which list the last know factory map for your machine. If in doubt, a dealer can load the latest factory map. It sounds like you can't be any worse off.
 
Rudy, it is possible that a fuelling fooler could be fitted. This will fit between the Lambda sensor under the gearbox and the normal cable for same. Need to remove the start motor cover, get underneath and have a look. Oh, and do it while it is cold.

I get around 47 mpg on mine and yours is a tad low.

There are a few things to check, a throttle body balance is first and foremost. Also as John says, the engine temp sensor may not be assembled correctly (needs to be filled with engine grease to work properly) this is in the R/H head. Also the air temp sensor, on the airbox, could be another culprit.

A few things to start with. Let us know how you go...
 
This is some idea of what I was after. I never thought of the temp sensor. As for the map it has one of Todd's maps in it and as I have stated previously the mileage sucked prior to that so it is not the cause. No codes thrown. I don't think the programming box from Todd will show any sensor inputs and a half dozen attempts to get "that other software" to run on my laptop have all failed. I may have to look into that some more. I used to have the other software from Todd that would show all the inputs for my 1400 but I don't think it works on the 8V and I removed it from the computer to try.
Oh yeah. I have checked the throttle body balance and reset the TPS at each of 3 map installs.
 
Nah Dave, did the conversion to US Gallons from what I get on l/100km, The numbers she be right!
 
Maybe it has a BoosterPlug from Denmark in it? It's designed to spoof the air temperature sensor into enriching the fuel delivery which might explain your predicament. Here is the installation manual to show you where to look.
 

Attachments

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John, technically this heatsink compound is only good for 100 degrees C (212 degrees F) and can break down above that temperature. Much of the heatsink stuff contains Beryllium which is not nice stuff - actually twice as bad as asbestos though not often understood. Engine grease is harmless in comparison. If beryllium free, then great, providing temperature range is sufficient.

Just my 2 cents worth.
 
I got around to doing some checking and my findings boil down to "Live With It". I see no modifications. I checked the engine temperature sensor. I got 3.52k ohm at 71.5F. Looking at the values in the shop manual this seems within range. Using a linear change of resistance from 86F to 68F I get 3.225k Ohm. The change in resistance is not linear as shown by the other values in the manual but this is close enough to say it is not the sensor.
The air temperature sensor gave me 3.17k ohm at 75F. This also seems within reason.
The lambda sensors in the exhaust gave me 8.8 ohm right and 9.2 ohm left at 75F which appears close enough that it would not result in what I am figuring is about 20% less fuel mileage than I should get. So I ride a gas hog and live with it.
 
Not sure reading ohms on a lambda sensor is a good check. I prefer to use diagnostic software and watch the voltage readings from the sensor change. The voltage readings, in theory, should change so fast you can't get the readings, but in practice on a Guzzi they seem to change about every 4 seconds. I've only had one bike hooked up where the readings changed so fast you couldn't see the reading.
 
Ab... sounds like you've checked what you can. 35MPG does seem awfully low. I just got home from a 3 day, 833 mile, 5 state loop. Averaged 47 MPG, with some spirited riding in the mountains. I will say, I get better MPG when using 100% gas. But, it wouldn't drop 12 MPG if not! I hope you'll have an epiphany and find the culprit!
 
i get around low 30's on my commute - 15 miles, but on long runs can get up to 50 - even if i push it hard. i just dont reckon it is good at short runs
 
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