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Checking oil level when hot...why ?

E

erix2

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
43
Location
Leyland UK
I`ve checked the other oil threads and I cant find anything relevent.......if its been covered a hundred times before then I apologize..:(

Why is it necessary to check the oil when hot as opposed to cold ? I could understand it if the oil filter was mounted upsidedown or summat and the oil drains back or not etc.
I`ve fitted a Stucchi dipstick extension kit which has improved the access markedly.

Shirley theres a way round the problem even if it means re-marking the dipstick. I may be an awkward, fumbling owd git but I seem to
manage to touch the rocker cover which is similar in temperature to the surface of the `kin Sun...:S

Then theres the inevitable drip of hot oil on the back of me hand while I`m trying to see where the level is on the stick..:angry:

The neighbours children are becoming used to hearing a stream of new words 5 minutes after I come in from a rideout.....:blush:

Hope you can help...

Eric :(
 
Oil expands a little when hot, as does the whole engine, minimal as it is. To give an example my corrugating rolls on work machinery are 2.5meters long, cold. At 180*c they grow 3mm in length and 0.1mm in diameter (300mm).
I would check the oil cold, as long as it's towards the top end onf the scale you'll be just fine with no burnt hands.
For a definate check, do your hot check last thing after the ride, then re check the next day before you start the bike.
No more burns, eh?
 
I cannot believe that oil-checking is next to rocket-science, nor that some cubic-whatever ( well, not -feet. But ccm or an inch, at least :laugh: ) more or less are essential.

Neither that expansion of stuff is noticeable. Some oil will still stay in the heads and galleries when the motor is hot, though.
Checking a cold motor, and filling to the max level can cause a slight overfill.
But it's quite convenient to check and compare levels when the engine is hot, as it is when on the road, when you really don't want a very low level.
 
I check it hot and cold. I first checked it by the manual and then while cold and on the center stand as a point of reference. There wasn't enough difference to worry about.
 
I think that the level you measure will depend on how long the oil has been cold. You'll find much less variation with the oil hot, and on my Norge, I find I get less "stray" oil on the stick (or maybe it's easier to clean before dipping it?), making the reading easier.

Noel Cassidy makes a dipstick tool. Not that you need any except on the Norge, but it allows to handle things from a safe distance :p
 
Well done Kurt, you just said all that needs to be said. No noticable diference that would cause any harm will come from doing it hot or cold Keep it within the lines to the + side.

Noe tyre pressures are another thing, To get the best I only check mine hot, less moisture in the air.
 
Interesting comments.

With wet sump engines I check them cold and like to keep the level close to max. The reason for hot checking is that the oil is closer to working conditions in that not as much of the circulating oil has had time to drain back to the sump, but as posted here, the difference is small.

With dry sump engines (like my Buell) it's vital to check the level hot, not just when the oil is hot but after the bike has just been ridden for some minutes. The difference in level then and when fully cold is scarily different as oil drains from the reservoir via the oil pump to the crankcase. On old dry sump race bikes it's common to fit a solenoid flow valve on the oil line leading to the oil pump to prevent all the oil loading the sump and making starting "interesting".

Wet sump engines are much easier to live with!

Graham
 
Gary, hot air holds more moisture, but I'm sure you knew that, living in the land where smog was invented ;)
 
Thanks for the replies....sorry if it was considered a bit of a numpty question but I was curious as to why they specified "hot" check.

....We`ve all gotta start somewhere....:S

Eric B)
 
Hey don't apologise - as the saying goes (with added relevance for correctness) there are no "numpty" questions, only "numpty" answers.....

Keep askin!
 
Stuck on the centre stand when I park up for the night and oil checked hot, then cold in the morning there is bu66er all difference on the B11. I expect there would be a difference if you park up on the side stand (but still measuring with bike upright) either higher/lower depending where the dipstick actually is in the sump???

Measure it both ways and if there is no significant difference then do it cold as it reduces blisters!
 
Hey Erix2, it's the numpty answers that keep me here.
Lets face it who would really check their tyre pressures when only hot, every one knows you can only check them properly at a full moon, when there's more Dimethylaminopyridine in the air to stop the rubber being porus.
 
Gary wrote:
Hey Erix2, it's the numpty answers that keep me here.
Lets face it who would really check their tyre pressures when only hot, every one knows you can only check them properly at a full moon, when there's more Dimethylaminopyridine in the air to stop the rubber being porus.
Click to expand...
So that's where I've been going wrong, I do it when there is a new moon.:laugh:
 
I do wonder why the 90 degree valve stem points to the right under the rotor in the back rather than to the open left side. I'm just sayin'.....
 
OK, while we're onto oil temperatures, why change oil when it's been warmed up? I know it flows better and all, but isn't there more in the sump to extract after the bike has been sitting for a couple of days?


numpty or not?


Robert
 
Robert

Three reasons that I'm aware of:

Hot oil is thinner and so flows out better and more completely.
Hot oil can hold more water vapour so more water contamination is removed.
Hot oil still has more particulates held in suspension so more are removed.

Graham
 
Gary wrote:
Noe tyre pressures are another thing, To get the best I only check mine hot, less moisture in the air.
Click to expand...

As all OEM tire-pressure values are for cold (20 *C) tires, I'd like to know how you compensate for that? ;)
 
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